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Monday, March 23, 2026

80-year-old port at the Big Fortified Wine fair in London

I could never miss the BTF in London, and this year as always we were treated to a panoply of gems from Spain, Portugal, Italy and one day does not do justice to the diversity of the products for the visitor to taste.

In this post I will focus on a special event I was incredibly lucky to be invited to: an exclusive tasting of port bottles filled with nectar that had aged at least eighty years, and often much more.


Jafoste

White

Sweet still lots of acidity.

Score 88

Tawny

Nutty, fresh

90






Agri ronçao vinicola

90° Aniversario white

Freshness and lots of sugar hand in hand, powerful.

92


80yo Tawny

Very very old (above 80yo)

Caramel, toffee, toasted 

92





Taylor's 

About 100yo very very old port 

Perfect balance, caramel toasted notes 

95




Graham's 

Wines from the 1940s 

21.5abv feel alcohol 

Fresh, long, touch of  bitter 

94
















Quinta da Devesa

80yo very very old white

Very fresh and long, complex

94


80yo very very old Tawny

Balance apricots chocolate 

Very complex and long

96











Maynard's


80yo very very old Tawny 

Vanilla white chocolate

Complex long 

94

















Kopke 

80yo Tawny 

Blend from 1900 1927 1941 wines

 Freshness prevail 

Apricots nuts 

93














Blackett

Very very old Porto 

Intense aromas velvety 

Perfect balance, long, the best wine today.

96


Thursday, January 22, 2026

Masterclass on wines from the Loire valley


Annual ritual with wines from the Loire in London, organized by Charles Sydney Wines. This time we were led through a masterclass by Jo Locke MW, and the producers of the wines below. 


Here are my tasting notes.



1. Ackerman Royal 2022

Crémant de Loire, Saumur


In 1831 Mr Ackerman came from Belgium and wanted to copy Champagne, first to do in Loire.


60 Chard 30 cab franc 10 pinot noir check, 36 months on Lees 

Fresh, mod complex, 

Score 87



2. La Minée, cru château Thebaud 2022, first release

Muscadet cru communal 

Organic

 balance, complex 

Score 91



3.Les hauts de Husseau 2019,domain de la Taille aux Loups 

Montlouis sec AOP

Grapes? 

Dry vintage but very old vines (80 to 150 years old!) with deep roots got humidity from ground 

Spontaneous fermentation in deep caves, can take up to a year! No sulphites needed because little oxygen in caves. 

Smooth and balanced, mod long 

Score 90



4.Edmond 2022 Domaine Alphonse Mellot 

Sancerre blanc sauvignon 

Vines from 1904. Current Alphonse is 19th but he only has 4 daughters, first called Alphonsine! #biodynamic 

Balanced complex and long 

Score 94


5. Buisson Renard 2022,Domaine Didier Dagueneau

Balance complex and long, 

Vin de France and not Pouilly Fumé got fed up with regulations of appellation. 

Score 94




Reds



6. La Chapelle 2023,domaine des Pothiers Roman Paire) 

Côte Roannaise 

Gamay 

Spicy, smooth, long. 

Score 92


7. Génération XIX 2019, domaine Alphonse Mellot 

Sancerre Rouge Pinot noir 

Very smooth, perfect balance, long 

Score 95


8. Les Chiens Chiens 2018, Domaine de la Noblaie

Cabernet Franc 

Chinon rouge aop, organic 

Rough, sharp edges, needs time in the bottle to get a bit rounder. 

Score 90