Madeira Wine Tasting in London

Another great Madeira tasting in London organized by Westbury Communications in cooperation with the Madeira wine institute, the entity which certifies wines and producers on the island. 

I had already written about a previous Madeira event by Westbury here on this blog.

Tiago Freitas president of MWI gave us a short introduction to the current state of affairs of Madeira wine.  Demetri Walters, MW, a well known expert on the London wine scene, delivered two masterclasses.

I have written on this blog about Madeira and would refer the reader to my post for information about the history and cultural background of the island and its wine.

I have also recorded a presentation that I usually deliver when working as a guest speaker on cruise ships.

MASTERCLASS ONE

1. D'Oliveiras 3yo sweet 

Fruity, easy

Score 88

2. Barbeito rainwater medium dry

Slight bitterness, fresh.

80% TN 20 verdelho 

Score 87

3. Blandy's 10yo Sercial 

Very fresh, dry. Citrus and almonds. 

Score 88

4. Henriques & Henriques boal 10yo 

Complex long honey 

Score 90

Fig highball with coconut 

Madeira, coconut cream 

Smoky Madeirarita 

Fresh, smoky 

5.borges 5yo medium dry 

Fresh easy 

Score 85

6. Justino fine medium dry reserve 5yo

Balanced and long, caramel 

MASTERCLASS TWO 

Terroir Tradition and Elegance 

Banana leaves between staves to make them watertight 

1. Justino TN colheita 2010 

Known for blending.

Good balance, medium sweet 

Score 89

2. HM Borges TN 1998 frasqueira 

Medium dry style 

Bottled in 2024 

Fresh, nutty 

Score 90

3. Blandy's verdelho Colheita 2011

Bottled in 2024

Balanced and complex. Nutty, marmalade. 

Score 89

4. H&H boal 2000

Perfect balance, long and complex. Fruit cake, ripe apricot. 

Score 93

5. D'Oliveiras malvasia frasqueira 2000

Prunes, dry fruit, caramel. 

Remarkable acidity, starts sweet and ends fully dry. 

Score 94

6. Barbeito Sercial 1994 frasqueira 

Fresh, toasted notes 

Score 90

Amarone masterclass in London

Another year and another great Amarone day organized by the UK Sommelier Association, after the previous editions which I reviewed here for 2022 and here for 2024 . Thank you to Andrea Rinaldi and Federica Zanghirella for the opportunity to attend, and especially to benefit from a select tasting during a masterclass led by the every faithful Peter McCombie, an old hand at Amarone.

For a general discussion of Amarone winemaking, terroir and some facts and figures I'd like to refer to the two posts linked above.

Just a quick update: the more recent figures show that Corvina, the main grape, uses up to 56% of the vines devoted to Amarone, Rondinella 19%, 

Corvinone 17%. A bit is left for Molinara. Amarone has to be made with minimum 90% corvina. Training by the 2200 growers is mostly pergola. In 2024 some 50% of all production was recioto, 25% each for Valpolicella and amarone. Just as a quick reminder, amarone is the product of appassimento, dry on "arele", which are racks in a protected environment, and lose up to 50% of weight, while it is almost never botrytis. This increases glycerin, concentrates polyphenols, sugar. 

Here are my tasting notes for this year.

1. Bottega docg 2021

Fruity, tannins need some rounding in the bottle, some sugar becomes evident in aftertaste.

Score 86

2. Contrada Palui docg 2020

Moderate intensity and structure, alcohol is felt over glycerin. Maybe help could come from decanting. 

Score 87

3. Tenuta Santa Maria di Gaetano Bertani docg classico riserva 2019

Intense, balanced and moderately complex and long. 

Score 90

4. Corte Saibante docg classico 2017 

Very well balanced, smooth, mod complex and long. 

Score 91

5. Gerardo Cesari Spa, docg classico riserva "Bosan" 2016

Mod intensity, perfect balance, long. 

Score 90

6. Falezze di Luca Anselmi docg riserva 2016 

Structure is strong and balanced, tannins still there, could use a few more years or some decanting. 

Score 92

7. Clementi docg classico 2015

Intense, perfect balance, complex and long. A harmonious wine. 

Score 96

8. Vigneti Villabella docg classico riserva "Fracastoro" 2013 

Plump fruity full bodies, balance with a smooth ending and a hint of sugar. 

Ready to drink now. 

Score 95