Amarone Calling in London

Amarone masterclass

Sponsorship of the  consorzio Valpolicella for today's event in London organized by the UK Sommelier Association with a masterclass led by James Goode. 2200 growers, 300 bottlers, 6 cooperatives make up the exclusive landscape of Valpolicella where amarone in produced. James argued that because of the reputation of this wine we think we know it but in fact recent developments are generous with surprises.

Amarone is one of 4 styles of wine produced in the area near Verona: Valpolicella Doc, Classic, Valpantena and amarone. Moderate continental climate moderated by Lake Garda which plays a fundamental role in the vineyards. 

Of the main varieties produced, corvina is the queen with 56%, followed by rondinella with 20% and corvinone with 16%. Smaller amounts of molinara.

Amarone must have between 45% and 95%of corvina or Corvinone also between 45% and 95%, while Rondinella can be used between 5% and 30% of the wine. It is used to give color. Molinara is the least used, between nothing and 10% and it is known to confer acidity and sapidity to amarone.

Pergola training mainly, with some 25% guyot.

Appassimento is the famous method used to make amarone: drying grapes on straw or hanging in dry rooms. Mostly but not always it avoid botrytis.

After a few months the grapes lose up to 60% of the water and this results in concentrated polyphenols, sugar and aromas.

 

Some producers these days use controlled humidity and temperature, traditionalists don't and argue that the true nature of amarone lies in the unpredictability of the uncontrolled process.

Grapes are dried until December at least and then pressed to start fermentation. 30 to 40 days of maceration  and finally aging for at least 2 years (4 for riserva) in wood.

Below my personal scores of the wines. IMHO most of these are way too young, but some lovers of more robust taste might like them now.

La Romiglia, amarone Valpolicella 2021

Powerful aromas for this robust wine, tannins need more time in bottle. Give it 5 years at least.

Score 88

International WIne Group, amarone Valpolicella "vivunt", 2021

A well balanced, long amarone, would benefit from at least 5 years in the bottle.

Azienda agricola Giampiero Borghetti, amarone Valpolicella classico 2020

Underipe, drink now if you like your tongue to be grated a bit, or else wait...

Score 86

Massimago, amarone Valpolicella "Conte Gastone 2020“

A sharp wine, quite un-amaronish, powerful tannins yet to be tamed.

Score 86

Corte Figaretto, amarone Valpantena "Brolo del Figaretto" 2020

A fruity amarone, fresh and long. An unusual style but an interesting one.

Score 90

Montezovo, amarone Valpolicella 2019

Oak confers a spicy taste, but good acidity moderates the sweet ending for this wine from an exceptionally good year.

Score 91

Colle Cerè, amarone Valpolicella classico 2019

A solid wine, well built, a "big" amarone, powerful, complex and long.

Score 93

Monteci amarone Valppolicella classico, 2018

This was a difficult year andmade for a fresher wine, red fruits are evident, a youthful amarone that will benefit from more bottle aging.

Score 87

Zymè di Celestino Gaspari, amarone Valpolicella classico 2018

A ready amarone, with a perfect balance good length and complexity.

Score 93

Falezze di Luca Anselmi, amarone Valpolicella 2018

A bit jammy, a mature wine, drink now.

Score 86

Cantina Colle Archi, amarone valpolicella riserva "IS", 2018

An austere amarone with a perfect balance.
Score 92

Pieropan amarone Valpolicella riserva "Vigna Garzon" 2018

An intense, long perfectly balanced wine.

Score 92

Camerani Corte S. Anna, amarone Valpolicella Valzzane 2017

Amazingly fresh, a bit rough.

Score 86