Garnacha Alta wines at the London Wine Fair

Delightful masterclass by Rosana Lisa, winemaker from the Spanish wine academy.

These are the main takeaways from her talk.

Grenache, as it is mostly known outside of Spain, is valued because it is highly resistant to drought, a rustic variety that should adapt well to climate change, ie drier seasons.

It can have high yields but at the expense of quality and recently producers prefer quality over quantity.

It is also quite resistant to pests, including phylloxera, which allows for less use of pesticides.

It is a good "team player", meaning it works well in blends with many other varieties.

Discreet, soft tannins, make for a highly drinkable wine even without long aging.

Here below my tasting notes.

1. Ramon Bilbao

Early harvest rose 2024

60% tempranillo 40% red garnacha

Floral, smooth and long.

Score 88



2. & 3. Ramon Bilbao

90% red garnacha 10% viura

Lalombra finca Lalinde 2015 & 2024

2015: evolved dry fruits dry Apricot, petrol notes,feeks slightly oxydized

Score 88

2024: smooth long




4. Ramon Bilbao by Sebastian Velez from Colombia challenge winner

100 garnacha

Score 86




5. Ramon Bilbao, Limite sur 2020

100% garnacha

20yo avg age of vines

Score 88




6. Ramon Bilbao

100 month concrete 2015

100% garnacha single vineyard, no oak

Liquorice, still evolving,

Score 92



7. Mas Alta

ELS PICS 2021

50% garnacha 40% cariñena 10% syrah

Mas means rural house.

Powerful complex long

Score 93


8. Mas Alta

Artigas 2020

80% garnacha 10%cariñena 10% Cabernet sauvignon

Very long and complex, perfect balance

Score 95

Hidden gems of Iberia

 

Eclectic masterclass at the London Wine Fair 2025 focussed on Iberian wines and led by Mercedes Carbajo of Majuelos Iberia.

Below are my tasting notes.

Rias Baixas

Alvinte As Laxas

Crisp, zesty, green apple,

Score 86

Cariñena

Garnacha 

Vaquerizas, tierra de Cubas

Score 85

Catalayud 

las Martas San Gregorio 

Garnacha 

Smooth elegant long 

Score 92

Ribera del Jucar Ramblilla 2022 

bobal grape 

Vega Maragona 

40yo vines 

Structure length 

Needs a few years in bottle

Score 88

Txakoli Zudugarai rosé

Hondarrabi 60% beltza and 40% zuri 

From Basque country, 

Slight effervescent natural 

Score 85

Rioja selection, Jesus Madrazo 2018

Graciano 28% 2% Maturana 70% tempranillo 

Intense aroma, Elegant, structure still rough, needs time 

Score 86

Ribera del Duero - AØ (zero) Ferratus 2020 

Tempranillo 

12 months French oak 

Perfect balance, long ready 

Score 91

Jumilla 2021 

Alceño 12

From area considered kingdom of monastrell (mourvedre), only grape that grows well in the region 

Pre phylloxera vines, climate too tough even for pests!12 months in French and American oak 

Perfect balance, long, ready 

Score 92

Meet the producer: Navarro Lopéz, Ciudad Real, Spain

A family-run enterprise for over one hundred years, Navarro Lopez has blended tradition and innovation and carries forward the best of Rioja wine making through its presence pretty much all over the world. Below are my tasting notes from a selection of wines that I received for review.

Elegancia 2019
Tempranillo 100%
The name says it all, this is an elegant wine
Paired with Chinese bamboo shoots, pork belly and brown rice.
Score 90

Chinese bamboo shoots and brown rice for an "elegant" pairing"

Vina trebolar 2022

Graciano, tempranillo, syrah and garnacha

A wine of stature, with plump structure, perfectly balanced, where the fruit has given space to secondary flavors. I can only imagine tertiary notes would develop in time but this bottle is ready now.

Score 94

Imperio Gran Seleccion 2019

Tempranillo 100%

This is a delicate tempranillo, this seems to be a recurring feature in Navarro Lopéz wines, a wine that tiptoes to your palate rather than exploding in your mouth. It is elegant and at its peak now. I think that its perfect structure could only suffer from prolonged bottle aging.

I paired it with braised duck legs and soya bean sprouts.

Score 91

Viña Valoria 2013

tempranillo 100%

A truly top notch tempranillo, with all you might expect from that and more. An intense aroma of ripe red fruits leaves you ready for enjoying a perfectly balanced and complex mix of secondary and tertiary flavors. 36 months in American oak confer a smooth elegance to this majestic wine. Great length. 

I paired it with shredded slow cooked pork accompanied by red peppers and a touch of spring onions for freshness.

Score 95

Meet the producer: Lajas, Finca "El Peñiscal", Calatayud, Spain

A Calatayud wine region map leads us to the north of Spain, in mountainous Aragon. It is in the province of Zaragoza, in the Ebro river valley. The history of the Calatayud Spain wine region dates back to ancient times. It was the 2nd century BC when viticulture first emerged in the area. In Roman times, vines were planted all over Spain. Later, the Moors inhibited wine production. The Christians restarted it in the 12th century, the monks of Monasterio de Piedra actively encouraged vineyard planting. The monastery's cellars testify to the vital role of wine throughout the region. 

Calatayud shown in dark purple

Since the region earned the appellation status and became an authorised DO (denominación de origen) in 1990, it has never ceased the production of high-quality wine, making the appellation prestigious and attracting winegrowers from Europe and all over the world. (Winetourism.com)

Samples received from the producer in the context of the 2022 Onvinum wine fair. 

rare bottle, n. 430 of 4313!

Intense aromas, complexity and moderate balance for this rare Garnacha, it is ready now but may benefit from a few more years in the bottle. I found it best several hours after opening the bottle, in fact the next day. 

I paired it with a mouth watering steak on the bone cooked medium rare. The tannins matched the succulence by contrast and the strong structure of wine and food married by concordance. Strongly recommended with any kind of steak.

Score 89

What was supposed to be a simple garnacha revealed surprising complexity and perfect balance. Kudos to Aris by Peñiscal! Watch out its 15%abv! I paired it with a plate of hearty lasagne.

Score 92

Meet the producer: Las Cepas, Rioja, Spain

An organic vineyard in Rioja, third generation of the family business. Overall Las Cepas plant 52 hectares in deep limestone soils. We had a chance to meet the producer at the 2022 online fair brilliantly organized by Onvinum, a new Spanish platform to bring together producers, buyers and educators. Here below my tasting notes for some of their wines.

Costalarbol white 2021
100% white Maturana

A not-so-common grape produced a fresh wine with apple notes that reveals a finely balanced finish. Moderately complex and long.

I paired it with raw spinach and seared sea bass.

Score 86

Salad of spinach and seared sea bass

Chinese-style fish head

Costalarbol red

100% Graciano grapes. 

It is a vigorous, I would say impetuous wine, it feels like an impatient teenager in the mouth. Young tannins next to red fruit, with moderate length. 

Good quality/price ratio. I paired with Chinese-style fish head, the slight spiciness might have called for a smoother wine but if fact it went pretty well with the lively Graciano, perhaps because the tannins matched the succulent sauce of the fish. I then killed off my glass with French Camembert cheese. 

Score 86

1921

Garnacha 100%

Vines that are up to  one-hundred-year-old for this wine of great character made with garnacha grapes. A smooth velvety wine, with good complexity, and considerable length.

Score 92

Egg noodles with peppers and pakchoi

Boca Chancla Crianza 2019

Tempranillo 100%

These vines are the oldest, they go from 40 all the way up to 100-year-old.

A smooth wine with elegance and moderate complexity. Ready with limited potential in the bottle. Paired with fresh egg noodles stirred with peppers and pakchoi.

Score 90

Rebuzno 2020

Maturana 100% (in Spanish it means "donkey")

Made with Maturana grapes, an old grape variety that was an icon of the Rioja countryside in olden days. It was later almost forgotten to the point it came close to risk of extinction, like donkeys! And now resurrected for an organic wine that is full bodied, big, almost opulent I would say. Can be paired with meat, of course, but also with a rich pasta sauce and, why not, stir-fried or baked fish.

Score 92

Here is a map in case you are in the region and want to visit Las Cepas, click to enlarge.

Meet the producer: Menguante Granviu, Aragon, Spain

Map by Vineyards.com

A family (1 brothers 2 sisters) winery in Aragon, south of Rioja, with their vineyards (130ha) that have been producing wines since the XVIII century. Currently  planting about 5 to 10 new hectares every year as the demand for their wines is increasing.

Their vineyards are cultivated organically, as they were by the owners’ grandfather who started the business.  All vineyards are organic certified. As a result, yields are relatively low, totalling some 500k bottles per year overall. 

They put special emphasis on indigenous grapes, mainly White and Red Garnacha, Cariñena and Vidadillo. 

Three different ranges are produced: Menguante, Menguante Selección and Gran Viu.

Below our tasting notes on samples that were graciously provided to us.

Menguante Garnacha blanca selección 2020
smooth Vanilla aromas, almonds, touch of freshness for a balanced wine
Score 88

Menguante Tempranillo, "waning moon" 2020
right after opening it welcomed me with a slightly rough edge, but it became more balanced during the meal and the day after it was a perfect harmony of round tannins and fresh wild red berries

Score 89

Lettuce roots, porchetta and Menguante Garnacha

Menguante Garnacha 2021
At first it hit me with a hard sensation and the tannins seemed aggressive, but it was a trick: one hour after the bottle had been opened it revealed a velvety and classy caressing character which I paired with the utmost satisfaction to a dish of stir fried Chinese lettuce roots and Italian porchetta. The by now gentle tannins still displayed a strong character to envelop the meat's fat and deliver a harmonious match.
Score 93

Menguante Garnacha Selección
An elegant wine, with complex aromas and a powerful yet lively start in the mouth. Mature red fruits and a generous dose of tertiary sensations, especially wet tobacco and a hint of chocolate that makes one hope of further evolution. Ready now but I would venture to recommend some patience.
Score 92

Menguante Vidadillo Selección 2017

A unique local variety, which only exists in their village Almonacid de la Sierra, south-west of Zaragoza, and they own 15 out of a total of 35 hectares dedicated to this variety.  

Grown in Almonacid de la Sierra, between 500 and 750 meters above sea level, produces a moderately structured wine with lots of fruits and moderate balance. Fruits sprints forward in the palate. It is also a fairly complex result with good length. Hard to predict its aging potential, as it is my first vidadillo, but I would say it is ready now. 

Score 90

Carinena Seleccion Granviu  2016

Garnacha, carinena and tempranillo blend, twelve months in French and American oak barrels.

Their best wine in this selection, intense ripe aromas and an elegant palate with tertiaries and good complexity and length. Ready now, the tannins are rounded as needed but it might still evolve a bit more in the bottle. I paired it to my great satisfaction with fried chicken on a bed of rocket.

Score 94

Map by Wine Folly

Meet the producer: Peñafiel, Ribera del Duero, Spain

Bodega Peñafiel

On 30th April I had a chance to go through a tasting of a range of wines from this vineyard on the Duero, in Spain.

I was guided through several bottles by export manager Raúl Blanco whom I would like to thank for his availability.

Many thanks to Myonlinefair for organizing this tasting very efficiently.

Bodegas Peñafiel

Avenida Valladolid Soria, km 311, 47300 Peñafiel, Valladolid, Spain

Alba de miros 2019
Their top white, 100pc verdejo.

Two months on lees release a pleasant fragrance.
A fruity attack and moderate body and length.

I paired with with a filet of Atlantic haddock in soya sauce with steamed broccoli.

Score 88

rrp 10euro

For the following two wines I decided to try an unusual pairing, with chicken soup with Chinese spices and lettuce. The astringency of the wines' tannins contrasts very well with the liquid soup.

Miros de ribeira 2017
tempranillo 100pc, made from the best grapes of this variety.
The wine is left to evolve for 8 months in French oak barrels, then another 12 months in the bottle.
Score 93
rrp 18 euro

El prenda 2017
80% tempranillo and 20% granacha
12 months in oak
score 82
rrp 8 euro

Other wines tasted today.

Alma serena 2020
tempranillo 100pc
3-4 months in oak give a pleasant roundness, moderate length and complexity.
score 86
rrp 10 euro

El importante 2016
100pc garnacha
12 months american oak followed by 12 months in bottle
These grapes come from old vines that are 50-year-old
This wine is in the upper range of products already. It can age another few years but it is ready now.
Score 90
rrp 16 euro
 

Silencio de Miros, 2015

Single vineyard at 1000 meter altitude above seal level.
100% tempranillo
Acidity is strong but it is expected to smoothen out with time.

A top-level Duero with a personality to challenge the most difficult palate.

This wine has been particularly successful in the Chinese market, where it quickly sold out after it was recognized as the best Spanish wine. 
Score 95
rrp 48

the cellar

Peñafiel red lineup