Taylor’s & Fonseca Port Chocolate pairing with Vinte Vinte Chocolate

Presented at the LWF 2024 by Pedro Martins Araújo, Master Chocolate Maker of Vinte Vinte, part of the Fladgate Partnership, and João Vasconcelos the UK Taylor's Port Market Manager. 

Port has a tradition of pairing with cigars, cheese and  chocolate, and it is to the last that today's session at the LWF was dedicated.

The suggested tasting technique is to let the chocolate melt in your mouth then drink the wine.

20/20 Chocolate is today's partner that provided all the samples paired to the port selection. The name is meant to be an homage to latitudes where cocoa is produced, and they started their business in the year 2020! 

Here are my tasting note:

1. Taylor's chip dry white port

Paired with 20|20 White Chocolate

1st white port made, in 1934.

Late fortification, let ferment longer, resulting wine is dryer. Their original goal was to compete with dry Sherry, but that is gone by the wayside now and chip dry (origin of this name unknown!) has no need to compare itself with competitors. Oxidative style, the wine is left in oak barrels to develop nutty style. 

Malvasia is the predominant grape. Great contrast of sweet choc and dry wine. Moderate intensity, balanced.

Score 88

Rrp 18

2. Fonseca Bin 27 reserve ruby, large oak barrels 3 to 4 years 

Paired with 20/20 dark chocolate 70%

Raisin plums, a few sharp corners in this ruby.

Score 86

Rrp 18

3. Taylor's LBV 2019

Paired with 20|20 dark chocolate 58%

Round smooth polished 

Cinnamon molasses. An excellent value port.

Score 90

Rrp10

4. Taylor's 10yo tawny 20 20 

Paired with 20|20 milk chocolate 35%

Pair by concordance, sweet choc and sweet wine

Very well balanced, long complex 

Score 92 

Rrp 20

5. Taylor's vintage 2003 since 1692!

Paired with 20|20 Grand Cru Dark Chocolate 70% Mexico Finca La Rioja 2019

Grand cru dark chocolate 

Intense nose of ripe fruit 

Very complex, long perfect balance 

Score 94

Rrp 90

6. Taylor's 50yo tawny Golden Age 

Paired with 20|20 Limited Edition Dark Chocolate 65% Peru

Gold color by aging in cask 

Change every year to clean old barrel, Port hates new wood! 

Angel share takes up to 98% over the decades! 

Highest altitude cocoa farm in the world in Peru 

Rrp 225 gbp 

Score 96

2000 bottles per year roughly

Port in the 21st Century with the School of Port

At the Big Fortified Tasting

Port is part of culture in the UK has been a primary market for centuries. It is widely available and a solid bridge between the two countries. 

Mr Symington recommended to drink port cool, "room temperature" today is likely to be quite a bit higher than in the past

Tasting notes:

1. 

Malvasia, moscato

Primary flavors, fresh, zesty even and yet with a touch of sweet at the end.

Score 90

2. 

Freshness is gone, nutty.

Score 88

3.  Graham 20 YO

Big bottle going around the room for this wine. Full body, round structure, good balance. Jammy even.

Score 86

4.

Freshness lingers on yet tannins make themselves felt. Like the previous wine this is a bit jammy, a bit too much perhaps. Nutty flavors.

Score 89

5. 

Vintage (less than 1% of production of port). Deep ruby color, tannins still too powerful.

Score 87

6.

Ripe red fruits, complex, jammy.

Score 88

Port Grand Tasting in London, courtesy of Instituto dos Vinhos Douro e do Porto

An intense afternoon for the wine trade in London today. A few weeks after a Madeira day, trade reps and media were invited by Westbury Pr to a walk around tasting of magnificent port bottles. All in all 19 tables with hundreds of samples, from simpler ruby to rare over fifty-year-old gems.

The Douro wine region was created one fine morning, on 10th September 1756, when Portugal decided to put some systematic order in the production of its most widely known and appreciated alcoholic drink. This makes Douro the oldest demarcated and regulated wine region in the whole world. 

It consists of two parts: Douro for regular wines and Porto for the iconic fortified brother. Today we focused on the latter.

Just as a reminder of port categories, here is how one should read the labels, and below a selection of my personal picks from a  superb collection put together by Westbury Communications for the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto.

Over a hundred varieties are allowed, but only five (Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cão, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Touriga Francesa, and Touriga Nacional) are the most commonly used. White port is made with  Malvasia Fina, Donzelinho, Gouveio, Codega and Rabigato.

Ruby: wine usually made in steel. "Vintage" is given only for special years when the IVDP recognizes a potential for long aging, usually 3 or 4 times in a decade. "Late bottled vintage" is a ruby port that has spent longer in the oak barrel, at least 4 years, usually longer than that, and it develops more complex and subtle flavors as a result. 

Tawny: especially chosen for aging in oak casks. Wine is slowly exposed to air in the barrels. When an indication of age appears (10, 20, 30, 40 or 50 years) it means the wine has been produced blending products from different years to obtain a final result that in the opinion of the winemakers shows the characteristics for that age. It does not mean that all the wine is as old as indicated on the label.

Colheita: a Tawny wine that comes from a specific year's vintage. Aged in wood for at least 7 years and often 20 or more years.

Port sales worldwide have recently topped 80m bottles per year.

Here are the best bottles of today.

Dia and her Burmester treasures

Burmester

Colheita Tawny 2003, score 89

20 Year Old Tawny, smooth, score 92

40 Year Old Tawny, great balance, caramel, score 93

1967 Colheita, a surprise not in the original catalog! Complex nose and palate of dried apricots, caramel, very long, score 96, the best bottle today ex aequo.

Kopke

Allegedly the oldest port house still in existence, founded in 1638.

50 Year Old Tawny. Complexity, balance, length: a harmonious wine, score 96, the best bottle today ex aequo.

40 Year Old WHITE, nutty, fragrant, score 94

30 Year Old WHITE, as above, a bit less evolved, score 90

Colheita WHITE 2003 and 2005, smooth, sweet sensations prevail, score 86

Niepoort

Garrafeira Tawny 1987, a smoky wine, unique, one may love it or leave it! Aged in demijohns which produces a smoky result. Nieport is the only house to use this process today. score 95 

Real Companhia Velha

Royal Oporto 40 Year Old Tawny, score 92 RRP GPB 120

Royal Oporto Colheita Tawny 1977, score 93 RRP GBP 140

Royal Oporto Colheita Tawny 1980, score 89

Mary Wright pouring 50yo liquid gold

Sandeman & Ferreira

Ferreira Dona Antonia 10 Year Old WHITE, score 86

Ferreira Dona Antonia 20 Year Old Tawny, score 88

Ferreira Dona Antonia 30 Year Old Tawny, score 92 RRP GBP 99

Sandeman 40 Year Old Tawny, score 90 RRP GBP 156, dry for its age.

Sandeman 50 Year Old Tawny, score 96, RRP GBP 330, a harmonious wine, the best bottle today ex aequo.

I could not have asked for a better bottle to end today's tasting.

Wine Regions of Porto and DOuro (image by I.V.D.P.)

subregions of Porto and Douro