Back to the annual rendez-vous with Amarone thanks to the walkaround tasting and masterclasses organized by the Consorzio Valpolicella with the UK Sommelier Association. Thank you to Andrea Rinaldi and Federica Zanghirella for the opportunity to come back and taste this magic wine of Venetia.
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| Masterclasses led by Peter McCombie, MW |
For a general introduction to Amarone, its region and its defining characteristics which make it an iconic jem among the top Italian wines I will not repeat here what I wrote on this blog on the occasion of past tastings, in 2022, 2024 and 2025.
Just to remind ourselves: the main ingredients of amarone are between 45% and 95% of corvina or corvinone also between 45% and 95%, while rondinella can be used between 5% and 30% of the wine. It is used to give color. Molinara is the least used, between nothing and 10% and it is known to confer acidity and sapidity to amarone.
Unlocking Amarone: The Venetian Red Born from Bitter Secrets and Dried Grapes
Before a single drop hits your glass, Amarone has already lived a life unlike almost any other wine on Earth. Born in the misty hills north of Verona, this iconic Italian red owes its legendary intensity to winter warmth, patient drying lofts, and a happy historical accident that turned sweet nectar into sovereign dry velvet. Pour a glass, let the aromas of dark cocoa and dried red fig fill the room, and step into the extraordinary world of Valpolicella’s greatest treasure.
That happy historical accident is the cornerstone of Valpolicella legend. For centuries, local winemakers prized Recioto, a lush, sweet red made from the finest sun-kissed grape clusters—the "ears" (recie in Venetian dialect) of the bunch—dried over winter to concentrate their sugars. Tradition holds that sometime in the early twentieth century, a forgotten barrel of Recioto fermented far longer than intended. Instead of halting while still syrupy and sweet, the wild yeasts devoured almost every trace of residual sugar. When the cellar master finally tasted the wine, expecting dessert, he met an unexpected dry, warming power—exclaiming, "Questo non è un Amaro, è un Amarone!" ("This isn't merely bitter, it's a great bitter!"). Well, we cannot be sure things went exactly like that, but you see where I'm coming from.
What began as an accidental dry rebellion has become one of Italy’s most revered DOCG wines. Yet Amarone’s magic remains firmly rooted in the ancient discipline of appassimento. Rather than crushing fruit immediately after the October harvest, growers lay hand-selected bunches of Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella on ventilated racks in hillside drying lofts (fruttai) for up to four months. As winter winds sweep down from the Dolomites toward Lake Garda, the grapes shrivel, shedding roughly a third of their water weight while concentrating acidity, tannins and complex aromatics.
By the time pressing begins in the dead of winter, the must has transformed into an elixir of extraordinary depth. Slow, cool fermentation followed by years in oak barrels weaves together layers of black cherry compote, dried plum, dark chocolate, leather, and sweet spice. Despite frequently reaching 15% to 16% alcohol, great Amarone never feels heavy or cloying; the natural vibrancy of Corvina lifts the palate, balancing opulent weight with remarkable poise and a lingering, savory finish that demands slow contemplation—and an equally bold dish beside it.
Just for completeness’ sake, here is a table that sets amarone against the background of its siblings from Valpolicella.
| Wine | Winemaking Technique | Style & Flavor Profile |
| Valpolicella Classico | Freshly harvested grapes from the historical Classico zone are fermented immediately with no drying process. | Light-to-medium-bodied, crisp, and juicy. Vibrant acidity, low tannins, bright sour cherry, cranberry, and subtle white pepper notes. |
| Valpolicella Ripasso | Fresh Valpolicella wine is "re-passed" (ripassato) over warm, unpressed Amarone grape skins for a second short fermentation. | Medium-to-full-bodied and approachable. Adds richness, color, and hints of dried fruit to fresh cherry acidity without reaching Amarone's intensity. |
| Amarone della Valpolicella | Full appassimento (grapes dried for 3–4 months) fermented until completely dry. | Bold, dry, and complex. High alcohol (15%+), rich body, notes of dried fig, dark cherry, cocoa, and spice. |
| Recioto della Valpolicella | Full appassimento (often dried longer), but fermentation is stopped early before all sugars convert to alcohol. | Richly sweet dessert wine. Lower alcohol (~12%), velvety texture, packed with sweet berry jam, raisin, and chocolate notes. |
Tasting notes from the masterclasses and walkaround
Accordini
Amarone 2013 A good example of amarone, score 86
Riserva guido 2017 The riserva shines and reaches the threshold of excellence at 90 points. Rrp 65 euro
Riserva Gino Cordini 2017 Their top product, a full-scale amarone with a score of 92. Rrp 65 euro
Corte Figaretto
Ripasso 2023 Score 87, 35 eur rrp
Amarone 2021 Brolo del Figaretto moderately intense, balsamic notes, rich and long. Score 92,
Degani
Amarone 2021 Score 90, tannins a bit too preponderant., less evolved than the previous wine, spices, I would leave it a few more years in the bottle. Rrp eur 14.5Nicolis
Ripasso Score 87
Amarone classico 2020 score 89
Riserva Ambrosan 2017 spices, score 90
Santa Maria di Gaetano Bertani
Amarone riserva tenuta S Maria 2020, an exceptional wine, score 93
Brolo dei poeti 2007, the best wine of the ones I tasted with a score of 94. Mature, drink now.
Recioto tenuta S Maria score 90
Gerardo Cesari
Amarone 2016 Riserva Bosan
Smooth, long and complex, score 92
Gini - tenuta Scajari
Amarone Mote Serea 2015
Ripe cherries and a perfect balance, freshness still there next to smooth velvety texture, very complex and long, a harmonious wine with a score 95 Drink now or in the next year or two.
Nicolis
Amarone 2020 Lots of fruits, tannins need time. Score 88
Lavarini
Amarone 2018 Ready, powerful and balanced, but tannins suggest still potential evolution, notes of medicinal herbs. score 93
Tenute Santa Maria Valverde
Amarone riserva 2015 Perfect balance, long and complex. Spices envelop a mature structure. Score 94
Valentina Cubi
Amarone Morar 2013 Dark chocolate, plums, tannins still too exuberant despite the age, I would wait 3-4 years longer to allow for a perfect balance to develop in the bottle. Score 93
