Meet the producer: Zonin, Veneto and Tuscany

London offers a boundless range of opportunities for the wine trade and we wine writers are lucky to have access to superb opportunities to develop our palates and our skills. It is impossible to attend even a small fraction of all the available events, so I have decided to prioritize those that offer masterclasses. This is always a more structured and educational opportunity to learn than the free pours where even the most meticulous taster can easily become overwhelmed.

The UK Sommelier Association, expertly led by Andrea Rinaldi with a passionate deputy and indefatigable event organizer in Federica Zanghirella is a leader is organizing highly instructive master classes.

Here below my notes about two such pearls that revolved around the production of the Zonin house, originally from Venetia, where they still make the bulk of their wines, but now well established in Tuscany as well.

 

Thanks to Andrea Rinaldi always my mentor at AIS in the UK.

Masterclass 1: Ca' Bolani whites: Opimio Pinot Bianco and Aquilis Sauvignon.

Christopher Burr, Federica Zanghirella presenting with Roberto Marcolini, winemaker of Ca' Bolani

Zonin is based in Venetia, in the heart of the Aquileia DOC region. Here people have made wine for over 3000 years, started well before Romans who however developed viticulture in a systematic way.

There are now 570 hectares of vines, mostly 5,000 vines per hectare.

The area is protected between sea and mountain, and the trademark bora wind regularly dries the air, which is of course good for viticulture. Significant day night temperature variations create good condition for ripening. Very diverse soils over estate.

Flight 1: Optimio, 100% pinot bianco

The names comes from a Roman consul who was well known for the good wines produced under his rule. In Venetia, as in most of Italy and indeed Europe, the Romans were pioneers of viticulture, expanding and developing what they learned from the Greeks and the Phoenicians.

We tasted three vintages of this underrated grape, which I love because it is a versatile wine, unpretentious but always surprisingly well versed to match medium structured food. Besides the obvious fish and white meat dishes you can have these with medium aged cheese and some Indian masala recipes or southern Chinese sweet and sour dishes. I'd like to try it with dim sum from Guangzhou or Honk Kong. 

2020

Pinot bianco, smooth with lingering freshness, moderately long

Ready now might benefit from a couple of further years of evolution in the bottle 

Score 88

2018 

Smoother than 2020 still good freshness. Drink now

Score 89

2016

Unsurprisingly the most evolved, smoothest and most complex and long of the trio.

Score 90

Flight 2. Aquilis sauvignon blanc Friuli Doc 

2018

A surprising sauvignon with nutty and vanilla notes that make it a unique interpretation of this classic grape. Complex and long. 

Score 92

2016 

A more evolved bottle, smoothness is raised to higher levels to the point of making an elegant wine with a mouthful of complex sensations. 

Score 93

2014 

Mature long complex 

Score 94

Thanks to my teacher Federica Zanghirella for introducing the day's food and wine pairing combination and the eccentric exhibition by Christopher Burr 

Masterclass 2: A culinary trip in Tuscany with the most iconic wines of Castello di Albola paired with traditional Tuscan dishes by Executive Chef Giovanni Zagni.

Castello di Albola is owned by the Zonin house since 1979. It now has a substantial 900 hectares of farms, but only 110 of these are vineyards. Mostly work on single vineyard wines. They started organic conversion in 2016, and it is now completed. They claim to fame as pioneers in respecting environmental, social (employment condition) as well as economic sustainability. 

Poggio alle Fate 2022 

Chardonnay 

Strong acidity attack but evolves in the mouth to a perfectly balanced and long wine. 

Paired with pappa al pomodoro. 

Paired by concordance of medium structure and contrast of acidity with sweet tendency of the tomato. 

Score 91

Chianti classico 2023 

sangiovese

Again with pappa al pomodoro 

Still young, tannins need a bit of time in the bottle.

Tannins contrast well with tomatoes but slightly overwhelm their sweet tendency.

Score 88

Chianti classico riserva 2021

sangiovese

A majestic Chianti, ready but with a few years of evolution potential. 

Matched with vegetarian ribollita, good concordance pairing between moderate tannins and moderately structured food with delicate sweet tendency. 

Score 92

Il Solatìo 2019 gran selezione

sangiovese 

Powerful elegant chianti, absolutely ready now with balance and good length. 

Paired with pici alla buttera (homemade pasta with ragoût and black olives) 

Score 91

Acciaiolo 2016

cabernet sauvignon 80% sangiovese 20%

First harvest 1988, one of the original "Super Tuscans"

Ready masterpiece, perfect balance and length 

Paired with pappardelle al cinghiale, concordance of strong structures and contrast of tannins with fatty sauce. A harmonious wine.

Score 95

Vin santo 2010 

Trebbiano and malvasia

Harvested late, in October.

Dried on racks, pressed in December, obviously very little yield. 

Almonds orange peel notes. Sink cantucci biscuits, or similar dry biscuits with nuts, in this wine. 

Score 93

Meet the producer: Tenuta Fertuna, Tuscany, Italy

Today I explored the versatility of winemaking in the Tuscan Maremma with Tenuta Fertuna.

Fertuna are pioneers in vinifying Sangiovese in all its forms: white, red and sparkling, as well as vinifying in an orange style with their newly launched Vermentino Orange wine. 

I met them at the LWF 2024.



Here my tasting notes:


Droppello alto bio 2022
Sangiovese white, similar to the results one expects from white vinification of Pinot noir. Fenuta say they did it because it was in demand in the market to make blanc de noir. Early harvest, no skin contact
Certified organic. Intense nose, Peach pear, vanilla from wood (oak grown on chalky soil to increase minerality)
Rrp 18, Score 85

Sparkling metodo classico 2019 brut
100% sangiovese
Fruity, balanced, moderately complex.
Score 86


Vermentino 2022
Apple minerality front and center.
Score 89


Vermentino orange 2022
5 days on skins to make it "orange".
Every week batonnage in open air to develop oxidation without adding sulphites.
Rrp 22 euro, Score 92


Celeo Toscana rosso 2018
50 merlot 50 cab sauvignon
Their flagship bottle, sports velvety tannins, good balance complex long,
25 days skin contact macération
Rrp 50 euro, Score 92

Sangiovese day in London

Massive and very informative tasting organized by Hunt and Speller in London, this event brought together over 100 producers of sangiovese from Tuscany, of course, as well as Romagna, Umbria, Marche and Basilicata. We learn a lot from the booklet distributed to the participants as well as from a masterclass dedicated to sangiovese from the Romagna region.

Today there are over 65,000 hectares of sangiovese planted in Italy, about 10% of all vineyards in the country, and it is therefore by far the most popular variety. It is featured in 112 DOC and DOCG as well as 88 IGT (indicazione geografica tipica, roughly the equivalent of the French vin de pays).

Its history goes back a long way: first mentioned in the XVII century, the name means "the blood of Jupiter", and it is attributed to monks from Romagna. Recent DNA research proves sangiovese is a cross of Ciliegiolo, a Tuscan variety with which is now frequently blended, and the almost extinct Calabrese di Montenuovo.

While sangiovese is mostly known because of Chianti and Brunello, it is the only variety planted on both sides of Apennines, originally by monks. Quality wines mostly to be found on hills. It is in Romagna that we find the oldest vines of the country, sangiovese plants that are over 90 years old.

Originally and for a long time sold in bulk, in the 1970s some producers began began bottling, looking for quality and enjoyment and not just calories and nourishing.

Now there are about 6000 ha of sangiovese in Romagna, mostly on clay soil. Prices still quite low but edging up as quality and recognition improve.

Walkaround tasting

Isole e Olena

2020 Chianti  Classico
Fruity, can feel the alcohol. Score 88

Cepparello 2019 IGT

Olena's battleship, powerful wine still young, with a complex and long finish. Score 90

Interesting story that of Isole and Olena, recently sold to a larger group.

Castello di Vecchiomaggio

Chianti Classico Guado Alto 2021 

A wine to be drunk young, fruity and straightforward, like a Chianti of the good old times. Score 90

Chianti Classico Riserva 2021

A sublime chianti with elegance, finesse, length and yet a strong personality. Score 92

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2020 Le Bolle
Ready, strong structure, complexity and length, a classic in the true sense of the word. Score 93

Tiezzi

Poggio Cerrino 2017 Brunello

Structured, still hard sensations prevail, need time. Score 92

Poggio Cerrino 2015 Brunello

This vintage is ready now. Score 93

Fuligni

Brunello 2018

Balanced and ready. Score 88

Brunello Riserva 2016

Old vines, complex. Score 91

Brunello Riserva 2012

Balanced and ready, very complex. Score 93

Brunello 2007

At its peak. Score 92

Tenuta Buon Tempo

Brunello 2018

Native yeasts only, large wood vat and French oak for 3 years. Score 92

Brunello 2015 Riserva

Ready now, a full, elegant complex wine, one of the best I tasted today. Score 94

Frescobaldi

Chianti Rufina Riserva 2018 vecchie viti

A round wine, their entry product falls easily in the space of excellence. Score 92

Chianti Classico Tenuta Perano Rialzi 2018

Round, complex and long. Score 94

Brunello Castelgiocondo 2018

A harmonious wine, a top Brunello. Score 96

Brunello Ripe al Convento 2017 Riserva

The best today, this wine has it all, intensity, complexity, length, balance. Score 97

Cupano

Brunello 2014

Round, smooth, elegant. Score 93

Cava d'Onice

Rosso di Montalcino 2020

Blend from 11 plots, large Slavonian vats. Score 88

Brunello 2018 Colombaio

Only half an hectare of young vines: need to wait for this one. Score 90

Brunello 2015 Riserva

Pronto, mineral, sapid. Score 94

Brunello 2018 and Riserva 2017 "en primeur" in London

Exceptional tasting today of Brunello di Montalcino en primeur: 2018 vintage and 2017 "riserva" (aged one extra year). Kudos to the organizers Hunt and Speller, a sure bet when talking Italian wine in London. Unusually, instead of the traditional walkaround, we were assigned individual tables and a team of helpful waiters and waitresses poured the wines we requested in batches of six. A much more pleasant and efficient organization. Presumably the first event of such kind in the UK!

A few facts from the useful catalogue provided: Montalcino only sports 2000 ha of production for Brunello and 500 ha for its little brother Rosso di Montalcino and this total surface area has not increased for some time. What has increased is the world's knowledge and appreciation for Brunello's 10 million bottles or so that hit the market every year! These are lovingly cultivated by some 260 producers.

Some dates to remember: DOC received in 1966, Consorzio Brunello di Montalcino created in 1967, DOCG received in 1980.

Not that anyone needs reminding, but Brunello can only be made with 100% sangiovese, the iconic Tuscan variety. Maximum yield is 52 hl/ha. Minimum 24 months aging in oak casks, minimum 4 months aging in bottle (6 for riserva) and release not earlier than 1st january of the 5th year after harvest (6th for riserva).

One reason Brunello is so popular, despite rising prices, is probably that it is a versatile wine: its velvety elegance can be paired with a wide range of food: obviously red meat but also many pasta sauces and lots of roasted or baked dishes, including fish.

Below a few tasting notes for the best of the best today. It was a hard choice as all Brunellos are good wines, most are excellent and quite a few are exceptional. But here is my list of stars which I scored 90 and above, best on top.

Let's get started!

Pian delle Querci, 2017 riserva, 97

Tenuta Conte Pavoni - Loacker Wine Estates, 2017 riserva Molino al Vento, 40yo vines,biodynamic, 97

Fattoria dei Barbi, 2017 riserva, some vines 45+yo, 96

Casa Raia, 2018, 47-year-old vines, organic, 96

Patrizia Cencioni, 2018, 96

Fattoria dei Barbi, 2018 Vigna del Fiore, 96

Pian delle Querci, 2018, 96

Casisano, 2017 riserva, 95

Ruffino, 2018 Greppone Mazzi, organic, 95

Ruffino, 2017 Greppone Mazzi riserva, organic, 95

Castello Banfi, 2017 riserva, needs time, 94

Salicutti, 2017 Teatro, 94

Fattoi, 2017 riserva, 94

Capanna, 2017 riserva, 40+yo vines, 94 

Col d'Orcia, 2015 riserva, 45yo vines, 93

Tenute Silvio Nardi, 2018 vigneto Manachiara, 93

Mocali, 2017 riserva, 93

Paradiso di Cacuci, 2017 riserva, organic, 92

Altesino, 2018 Vigna Montosoli, organic, 92

Le Gode, 2018 Vigna Montosoli, organic, 92

See you next time

Meet the producer: Fratelli, from Italy to India

At work with the seven brothers

Exciting master class at the London Wine Fair 2022 on Indian wines. Fratelli (it means "brothers") is now the largest and fastest growing wine producer in India. It started in 2007 in Maharashstra and its first vintage is from 2010. 

Seven brothers from three families (Sekhri, Secci and Mohite-Patil) and two countries (Italy and India) came together with a common goal: to produce quality wine in India. 

A country where wine, especially high quality wine, is not traditionally poured at the dining table but where the growing middle class has learned to appreciate it and can afford it.

The tradition in India at that time, and still now in many places, was mostly for producers to buy wines under contract from many farmers, while Fratelli began by planting its own vineyards with rootstock imported from France. The brothers looked for good soil that would allow them to control yields and keep quality high.

Fratelli now caters mostly to the growing domestic Indian market, though exports have begun to pick up toward Singapore and the US, where expat Indian communities are attracted to wines Made in India.

Steven Spurrier worked with Fratelli for seven years to help the brothers find the best blends for their products. The result is wines to drink soon after bottling, for now the production is not yet at the stage where a long aging in bottle is recommended. Tannins are ready when the bottles leave the cellar. One reason is that Fratelli tried to make wines to match Indian food, so smooth wines to pair with spicy masalas.

Here are some of my best takeaways from the tasting.

Gran Cuvée Brut
chenin blanc 80%, muller thurgau 15%, gewurztraminer 5%
Uses chenin blanc in this traditional method because it is appreciated by the large Indian community in South Africa, with which Fratelly wants to consolidate a long standing relationship. Fresh and zesty, mod balance. A structured wine. Abv 12%. Score 85.

Chenin blanc 2021

Green highlights around the characteristic straw yellow. Almonds and some bitter notes at the end. Abv 12.5%. Score 83.

Sauvignon blanc 2021

Another fresh wine, but more balanced than the chenin blanc. Abv 12.5%. Score 87.

Sette 2019

Sangiovese 60%, cab sauvignon 40%

This blend is clearly inspired by the supertuscans, and it is not produced every year. A plump wine with considerable elegance and structure. Good balance, tendence of smoothness to prevail, and enjoyable length. It is ready now with limited potential for aging in the bottle. By far the best product of the house, it retails for about 25 dollars in the US: Money well spent.

Score 89

Sette Fratelli

Meet the producer: Brancaia, Tuscany, Italy

Andrea D'Alessio

Interesting master class organized by Enotria&Coe at the London Wine Fair 2022 on the Brancaia vineyards. Keynote speaker was Andrea D'Alessio. Born in Alba, in the heart of the Langhe, in Piedmont, he grew up surrounded by Barolo and Nebbiolo wine. Since 2017 he is global sales director at Brancaia.

Brancaia is the result of a unique marriage between a Swiss family, Bruno and Brigitte Widmers, and Tuscany, which they visited over forty years ago for the first time and then made their home.

Today the daughter of the two founders, Barbara Andrea Widmer, who initially trained as an architect, continues the family tradition as winemaker.

They aim at max quality. No irrigation, even when allowed, to force the roots deep into the ground. They also run a restaurant and a B&B.

Brancaia Rosé 2021

100% merlot

Andrea Widmer was not happy with their red wine merlot, so she decided to make a rosé. The result is a citrussy, fresh wine, with light pale orange color obtained by avoiding almost all skin contact. They aim at max 30 minutes from picking in the vineyard to pressing in the cellar. Style imitates the rosé de Provence. Three months on lees.

Score 87

Brancaia Tre 2020

sangiovese 80%, merlot 10%, cab sauvignon 10%

Entry level product, their main wine, 80% of all production.

They use grapes that are not used for their premium line wines.

Very fresh, sight bitter end.

Score 80

Brancaia Chianti classico 2020

sangiovese 100%

Sourced from south-facing own vineyards at 230 and 400 meters above sea level. Steel and concrete, their entry level chianti

Recommend serving slightly chilled!

Long, clean finish, good balance.

Score 89

Brancaia Chianti classico riserva 2018

sangiovese 80%, merlot 20%

A structured and smooth wine, perfect balance.

A great chianti.

Score 92

Brancaia Ilatraia 2018

cab sauvignon 40%, petit verdot 40%, cab franc 20%

Vineyards at 75 to 175 meters of altitude, 25 day sof skin contact.

Full body, smooth, perfect balance and very long.

Grapes are vinified separately, all in French barriques, 50% new and 50% old, then blended.

Score 93

Brancaia Ilatraia 2008

Cab sauvignon 60%, sangiovese 30% petit verdot 10%

Plump fruity wine despite its age, good balance and length.

Mature now (2022) do not wait any longer, it was probably at its best a few years back.

Score 91

Brancaia lineup

 

Presentation of the English version of Doctor Wine's Essential Guide to Italian Wines

A high quality tasting in Piccadilly today to present the subject guide by Daniele Cernilli and his team. The first guide for the best Italian wines in both Italian and English. You can subscribe to their informative newsletter for free, just click on the link above.

Below is a selection of the best wines I found today.


Roero cascina ca' rossa

Bianco 2019
Inviting aroma to the nose, prevalence of citrus. A med length wine ready now.
Score 86

Roero le coste 2018
A medium structure wine that can be paired with a variety of med structure food, including roast fish.
Score 86

Mompissano 2018
Strong tannins in this best product from this vineyard, needs a bit of time but promises to be a good standard bearer of Piedmont is its category.
Score 88
____

Tenuta Santa Caterina

Grignolino 2020
Surprisingly powerful, it still keeps the grignolino fruitiness, great balance.
Score 90

Barbera superiore Vignalina 2019
Balanced long
Score 92

Freisa Asti superiore
Red and Black fruit
Structured, balanced.
Score 93
____

Famiglia Cotarella

Farentano Rossetto 17
Round smooth buttery, some citrus notes
Score 90

Brunello Montalcino macioche 16
Medium body and balance
Score 85

Montiano merlot 100pc 18
Ripe wild fruits
Smooth balanced long, ana amazing wine but needs 5 years
Score 95
____

Querciabella

Batár 18
50chard 50 pinot bianco
White flower, slight minerality, Smooth long
Score 94

Chianti classico riserva 18
Very powerful, structured
Long and complex
Needs 3-5 years
Score 94

Camartina 17
Cab sauv e sangiovese
Harmonious
Score 97

____

Tenute del cerro

The best house represented today IMHO.

Silìneo 2018 nobile montepulciano
Smooth velvet
Balanced
Score 97

Brunello la poderina 17
Smooth
Perfect balance harmonious
Ready
Score 98

Poggio miniera val di cornia 2013
Smooth powerful balance
Score 98

Giacomo Alari delle Tenute del Cerro

Stars of the Show

Simply Italian Great Wines (selection from Tuscany)

Sorry I forgot to shave before work today!

Most interesting tasting of Italian wines in London, smoothly and expertly organized by Jane Hunt MW of www.huntandspeller.com. This time I chose to focus on wines from Tuscany.

The producers who came to the tasting were an excellent selection, and here below is a totally subjective choice of a few who impressed me the most.

Azienda Agricola Malenchini

Thank you Alice Brizioli for the presentation of your wines. Now certified bio (organic) according to European standards.

Chianti DOCG 2020

A solid product that still needs time to evolve. Score 88.

Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2019

90% sangiovese and 10% canaiolo, An excellent Chianti. Score 90

Chianti Superiore DOCG 2018. 

This one takes 5% pf pulitello grapes, another top Chianti that will be at its peak sooner than the other two. Score 90

Vin Santo (100% malvasia), Score 88

Canaiolo IGT 2020.

A fruity interpretation of this so-called "minor" grape of Tuscany, usually blended with sangiovese in Chianti. Score 88

Bruzzico 2017.

The "Supertuscan" of their range. 50% sangiovese and 50% cabernet sauvignon, aged separately for five years: cab in large barrels and sangiovese in barrique. Ready now, still good potential. Excellent body and balance, very complex and long. Score 93. RRP 25 euro

Azienda Camperchi

These wines caught my attention, thank you Martina Marrini for your explanations.  Organic certified since 2018.

Campidivini La Cornia, (bio) 2018

Fruity pinot noir, reminds me of some New Zealand wines, sunny and lively. Score 90.

Campidivini La Chiusa, IGT blend 2015

Round and long, an excellent price/quality ratio at 10 euro RRP. Score 94, ready now.

Grand Collection, Anno 0, IGT 2015

70% sangiovese and rest cab sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot

A smooth, round wine with great body and complex tertiary aromas. Score 92

Azienda Fattoria Montecchio

Primum 2017 and 2016 Chianti classico DOCG.

95% sangiovese and 5% alicante, 18 months in large barrel. An imposing wine, round and compex, with great potential for further evolution. Score 92 for the 2017 which is in my opinion the better of the two.

Pasquino Primum 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG.

Sangiovese 100%, 30 months in barrels and amphoras. Clay slows evolution, this wine has a purposefully rough character which conveys it imposing personality. Score 94. RRP 38 euro

Vignano

A most interesting encounter with a family who moved around the world, from italy to Mauritius, South Africa, Singapore and back to Italy to make excellent wines in Tuscany. Thank you Nicolas for a great tasting. Certified bio-organic production. 

Chianti Riserva 2017 DOCG. 

Easy nose, more aggressive in the mouth. Score 88.

Il Primo 2016, Chianti Superiore 2016 DOCG.

100% sangiovese, full round smooth. Score 92

Matrio 2016 IGT Toscana malbec

The biggest surprise of the day, an Argentinian grape in Tuscany, well done. A complex wine, perfectly balanced, harmonious. Score 94.