Friday, April 12, 2024

Trade tasting of Monastrell wines from Spain

Thanks to the UK Sommelier Association and Monastrell Spain (a non profit dedicated to promoting this variety) for a unique masterclass on this relatively unknown grape from southern Spain. It is known elsewhere as Mourvedre, but here in Spain it finds a terroir that results in wines that are markedly different from those in France.

Spanish Monastrell sold about 16m liters of wine in 2022, the last year for which data is available. Of this, roughly one third is red, 25% is white and the rest is split between rosé, sparkling and liquor.

Four bottles out of five are consumed domestically in Spain, with a bit less than 20% exported, mainly to Germany, United States, Poland, the Netherlands and the UK. China's thirst is growing for this like for many European wines and it is already importing well over 100k liters.

In Spain Monastrell is the 6th most planted variety, with some 4% of total vined area, a percentage which rises to almost 8% if only red grapes are considered.

In terms of geographical distribution, Monastrell is planted mostly in the south-east of the country. Murcia captures almost half with 16k hectares, followed by Castilla-La Mancha (40%) and Comunidad Valenciana (15%). It used to be more widespread across the country before the phylloxera plague of the XIX century, but during the XX century it fell out of favor in the central and northern parts of the country. The reason for this is that this variety has turned out to be particularly well suited to hot and dry climates as one is likely to find in southern Spain.

Over the last one hundred years or so, it has been planted in considerable amounts in Australia and in the US.

The name Monastrell comes from the Latin and it indicates the important role played by monasteries in the development of viticulture especially after the definitive eviction of the Arab invaders from the Iberian peninsula.

We tasted recent vintages and in my opinion all these wines are ready to drink now with limited aging potential.

The masterclass was let by well known Master of Wine Peter McCrombie with his usual verve.

Ready, set, go Monastrell!

Here below are my tasting notes of the wines proposed to us in this masterclass:

Seven months in French oak.
A fruity wine with moderate intensity. Rough corners that may be smoothed out with a few years in the bottle. Score 85

Similar to the previous wine, red fruits and herbs organic production. Score 85

Biodynamic production. An intense start gives way to a balanced and long wine. High altitude (900+ masl) and calcareous soil. 14 months in old wood. Score 89

Fifty-seven-year-old vines produce a complex, perfectly balanced wine with a long, smooth ending. Twelve months in old and new Allier barrels help as well. Sore 90.

Ungrafted very old vines, over sixty-year-old, and organic production at 800 masl. American oak helps make for a smooth wine with lingering fruity notes. Score 90

70% Monastrell, 30% cabernet sauvignon
Deep ruby red, high concentration, complex aromas and almost jammy at end. High abv (15.5%!) Twenty-four months in oak. Score 88

Biodynamic, 43yo vines at 850 masl. One year in new Allier oak. Intense, balanced and complex. The best wine today. Score 92

Fruit with a touch of sweet. Moderate structure and balance. Moderate length. Score 90


Tuesday, March 19, 2024

Trade tasting of Cirò, Calabria, Italy

For the first time ever in the UK, 11 producers were assembled in London to showcase the best known wine from Calabria. Cirò has long been well known, at least in Italy, but only after the turn of the century it has begun to attract international attention in light of the markedly improving quality of the products available in the market.

The Greeks were the first to plant vines in Calabria, then part of the Magna Graecia, and called their red wine Krimisa. The Greeks also introduced the "alberello" training which is well known in Sicily and notably in Pantelleria, and established wine as a staple production. 

As always, it fell to the Romans to learn from Greece and take things a step forward. They organized and legislated so as to bring viticulture to a higher level of economic significance. 

Later invasions from the French and the Spanish also contributed to further development while the Arabs inhibited the consumption of alcohol. 

In modern times, quantity ruled over quality and too often wine from Calabria was shipped north in bulk, to offer its high alcohol content in blends with northern Italian as well as French weaker wines.

In an attempt to make Calabrian wines more widely appreciated, in 2008 laws were passed to allow for international varieties to be planted in the Cirò region. Some producers, however, opposed what they considered a betrayal of tradition and refused to follow the widespread fashion of using barriques as well. This resulted in a renaissance of pure gaglioppo wines, this time with renewed commitment to quality and greater investments in know-how and equipment.

The result could be seen at this tasting, with a number of high quality bottles that are sure to establish a new reputation for Cirò around the world.

Below are my tasting notes of what in my opinion were the best wines from this stimulating afternoon that turned out to be full of surprises.



Caraconessa Melissa Rosso Superiore 2019
75% gaglioppo, 25% greco nero
Organic production of 15,000 bottles since 2014. A relatively smooth wine, relatively to the structures of today's tasting that were on average quite powerful. Slight alcohol sensation. RRP £20. Score 89.



Cirò Rosso Classico Superiore Riserva Brinifé 2016
Red fruits and tertiary notes of leather and tobacco. A powerful and complex wine with a long finish. Ready now. You are lucky if you can get a hold of one of only 7,000 bottles produced.
RRP £44. Score 94.



Old vines planted in 1948 are the protagonists of this vineyard. Organic production for 25,000 bottles.

Liberaisensi Calabria bianco 2022
Made from guardavalle grape, a structured wine with toasted notes.. RRP £22. Score88

Il Marinetto Rosato 2022
An "orange" wine (only a few hours on the skin of gaglioppo grapes) then cement, no wood. A balanced and long wine. RRP £28. Score 90.

Cirò rosso classico superiore riserva 2020
A perfect balance and good complexity, surprising length.
RRP £ 28. Score 91.

Cirò rosso classico superiore riserva "Più Vite" 2016
A powerful wine, almost explosive, complex and long. Ready now no point waiting any longer. RRP £38. Score 93.



The house of Vumbaca was founded in 1984, there are now about 13 hectares of organically farmed vines, with a special project devoted to recuperating old vines by restoring them as saplings. The best overall producer of today.

Cirò bianco 2022
Greco bianco 100%
Very intense to the nose, balanced and long. Some vanilla notes reminescent of chardonnay.
RRP £ 20. Score 92.

Cirò rosato 2022
Gaglioppo 100%
Soft pressing of gaglioppo grapes, then just 3 hours on the skins.
As complex as roé wines will go, fruity and long.
RRP £20. Score 90.

Cirò rosso classico superiore 2022
gaglioppo 100%
A powerful nose gives way to a round palate and a long finish, very balanced.
RRP £22 Score 92.

Cirò rosso classico superiore riserva 2020
gaglioppo 100%
Full body, balanced, long and complex, this wine reaches the threshold of exceptional quality. Smooth and velvety secondary and incipient tertiary flavors that made me think it might be worthwhile to wait a few years to enjoy this wine at its peak.
RRP £39. Score 95.


OLD VINTAGES

On one side of the tasting room participants were presented with a table lined up with old vintages. The verdict is that some Cirò wines are now capable of aging very well indeed, which could perhaps be the most significant take away from this event.

’A Vita, Cirò rosso classico superiore riserva 2014
Good tannins, balanced structure, ready with 1-2 more years ahead. Score 90

Cataldo Calabretta, Cirò rosso classico superiore riserva 2013
Light garnet color denotes a mature wine, alcohol is predominant. Score 86

Cote di Franze, Cirò rosso superiore classico 2011
Balanced and long, moderate complexity. Score 91

Fezzigna Vignaioli, Melissa rosso superiore 2016
A complex with with a few years ahead. Score 91

Fratelli dell'Aquila, Cirò rosso classico superiore 2016
An intense nose, balanced and long. Score 92

Sergio Arcuri Cirò classico superiore riserva Più vite 2013
A bit astringent, alcohol sensation, probably past its peak. Score 86

Tenuta del Conte, Cirò rosso classico superiore 2012
A balanced wine with a thin ending. Score 86

Vigneti Vumbaca, Cirò rosso classico superiore 2019
Strong tannins give good structure which is partially disturbed by a strong alcohol sensation. Score 85

Tuesday, March 5, 2024

Welsh Wine in London


There is always a first time for everything and today is my first time at a Welsh wine tasting event. In fact it is probably the first time that any Welsh wine is going to pass through my lips and land on my curious taste buds.

Welcome to the Welsh Centre of London for an event organized by Levercliff.

There are some 50 vineyards in Wales, more than I would ever have imagined given the fact that this part of the UK lies at a very peripheral region of wine making, around 50 degrees north of latitude. 

Yet over 20 varieties are grown and some £10 million worth of wine are produced each year, and rising.

Below are my tasting notes for today. In general, I found these Welsh wines tend to be ready to drink rather young. This of course could be an advantage for both producers and consumers, but on the other hand it might mean less potential for evolution in the bottle.

I am surprised because at these cold latitudes I would have expected more acidity and dryer wines.

Maybe less surprisingly, and more similarly to what happens in England, whites were generally better than reds. And quite a few good bubbles.

Another point to note is that prices are not cheap. Good news for the producers that they can command mid-range prices for most of their wines and decidedly high prices for some, as I indicated below.

Finally, many wines had very low abv. I can only suppose the scarcity of sugar in the berries means less alcohol could be produced before fermentation stopped, for whatever reason.






Seyval blanc sparkling
seyval 100%
A fragrant and balanced bubbly, perhaps because of its 18 months on lees. RRP £ 35. Score 89



Pinot noir and seyval blanc 2022
Only 11% abv, a smooth velvety wine. RRP 21. Score 89



Seyval blanc/pinot noir 2022
18 months on lees produce an intense and long bubbly, very balanced with a touch of sweet at the end. RRP £35, Score 88

Rhosyn
seyval blanc/pinot noir 2021
A complex and long sparkling wine, 24 months on lees. RRP £42. Score 91

Naturiol
seyval blanc 2022
Natural fermentation and lees stirring, no filtering and no fining make for an opaque wine with an intriguing bitter touch. RRP 25. Score 90



White Still Gwin Gwyn 2023
Phoenix (80) and seyval blanc (20)
An intense wine with moderate complexity, good balance and length. RRP 24. Score 89

White still 2023
Siegerrebe 100%
Complex, long, balanced. RRP 24. Score 88.


Do you want to practice your Welsh?

Monday, March 4, 2024

Thracian Lowlands, Bulgaria, presented by Ray O'Connor MW

With Ray O'Connor
Unusual opportunity offered to us today by Westbury Communication in London: Bulgarian wines from the lowlands of Thracia. Excellent introduction by Ray O'Connor, MW. Here are the main takeaways.

The Greeks cultivated vines first in this region, but it was the Romans, as so often everywhere in Europe, that brought a systematic organization of wine production, with rules and laws about what to grow, how and how much.

The subsequent Ottoman rule all but quashed the wine industry and it was only in the 1870s, the Russia liberated Bulgaria from the Turks that wine production picked up once more. During the communist times, from 1945 to 1989, Bulgarian wine thrived because in the socialist planning the country was designated as a wine producing region. It was supposed to bottle wine for other countries of the socialist bloc that did not have the same comparative advantage in terms of climate and tradition. Because of the lack of a market economy wine was sometimes bartered instead of sold, even with western companies like Pepsi Cola, which unlike Coca Cola always had a good business relationship with the Soviet Union and its satellite countries: socialist wine for capitalist Pepsi!

With the return to market economy in the 1990s there was a huge task to be completed before production could restart on a new basis: return to the legitimate owners the land that had been expropriated by the Communist Party. Thereafter, the new/old owners started to stress quality over quantity, reduced bulk wine production and began to address the demand of the rising middle class, as well as of the export market.

Uniquely in Europe, and contrary to the old traditions that dated back to the Romans, Bulgaria decided to establish very loose rules for its denominations, and instead let the producers use their imagination to make pretty much whatever wine they wanted.

Here are my tasting notes:

Burgozone Via Istrum Tamyanka 2022, Danubian plain
tamyanka 100%
Intense,  aromatic, fresh with a citrus peel finish.
RRP £ 18. Score 86

Bononia Estate Vrachanski Misket 2022
Vrachanski misket 100%
Marked texture, fresh, citrus, sapid end
RRP 16. Score 86

Chateau Copsa Cuvée blanc 2022
50% chardonnay, 40% misket, 10% sauvignon
Intense and complex, fresh, floral.
RRP 16. Score 88

Vinex Slaviantsi reseerve Chardonnay 2021
Chardonnay 100%
Intense, complex, balanced and long.
RRP 12. Score 90

Aya Estate melnik 2021
Broadleaved melnik (Ranna Melnishka Loza) 100%
Spices, herbal, dry, a bit astringent. Might benefit from more time in the bottle.
RRP £20. Score 85

Rupel Gramatik Rubin Barrique 2020 from Struma valley
Rubin 100%
A structured wine, tobacco, herbal, definitely needs more time in the bottle to round corners.
RRP 20. Score 87

Domaine Boyar Korten Natura Mavrud & Rubin 2021
mavrud 68% and rubin 32% French oak barrels
Good structure yet lots of fruit, ready now with some potential for evolution.
RRP £ 10.50 Score 87

Katarzyna Estate Seven Grapes 2021
Cab sauvignon, merlot, syrah, malbec, tempranillo, cab franc, mavrud
Fresh, coffee, spices, structure, good length.
RRP £13.50. Score 89

Minkov Brothers Oak Tree 2016, Thracian Lowlands
cabernet sauvignon, cab franc, merlot
Complex, balanced and long.
RRP 29. Score 92

Slaten Rozhen Sycagy 2017, Struma valley
Syrah 33%, cab franc 33% and sangiovese 33%
Amazingly fruity and flowery, spices, tannins need some rounding.
RRP 30. Score 88

Bulgarian wines overview. Courtesy of Ray O'Connor






Tuesday, February 27, 2024

Furmint tasting by Wines of Hungary

Unfined and unfiltered furmint bubbles

This was a broad ranging tasting with much more than could be tasted in one day presented at a well organized walk-around at Painters’ Hall in London courtesy of Wines of Hungary.

This time I decided to focus on still 100% dry furmint wines, leaving aside the sweet ones which I had had occasions to taste in the past.

Below are my notes from the most interesting glasses of furmint I had a chance to taste today.

Garamvari Estate
2019 Balaton sparkling: zesty, fresh, ready now but with some potential for evolution. Score 86
2016 Tokaji sparkling: fragrant, evolved and mature. Score 89

TR Wines Tokaji 
Organic pet-nat 2022. Slightly bitter and opaque because it is unfined and unfiltered. Floral notes. An intriguing wine much different from all the others. Score 90.

Locse furmint 2017. A complex wine with a slight bitter ending, well balanced and mod long. Score 90

Nyergesek 2019. A mid-range balanced wine with mod length. Score 88
Szent Tamas Summit 2018. Their best and most complex wine. Score 90

Dry Szamorodni. Bone dry, almonds Slight bitter ending. Score 86

Harslevelu 2013. Balanced and complex, slight bitter ending. Score 89

Birsalmas 2019. Complex and long. Score 92

Furmint 2018. Balanced fragrant. Score 89

Dry selection 2011. Well aged wine, slight bitterness, balanced. Score 93
The 2018 is still young, I scored it 88 but it isnot ready yet.


sorry I forgot to shave today!






Wednesday, February 7, 2024

Discover Gavi trade masterclass

A rare, if not once in a lifetime, opportunity to attend a masterclass organized in London by The Drinks Business and entirely devoted to one of the most underappreciated varieties of Italy. Patrick Schmitt MW, just back from the region, led us through a tasting of 10 of the best Gavi wines, made exclusively with cortese grapes. This is the highlights of what I learned today.

Gavi vineyards lie in south-eastern Piedmont, near Liguria, which explains why even in a landlocked region there is some influence of the sea climate, which is reflected in viticulture by adding a touch of freshness and delicate taste that is often associated to coastal vineyards. All of this land is cultivated with cortese vines, which constitutes some 60% of all the cortese planted in Italy.

Some dates and numbers: the first indication of viticulture in the region dates back to the year 972 AD. Some 500 families work on Gavi wines in 190 companies which are part of the Consorzio (cooperative) founded in 1993. 1600 hectares of cortese planted and produce about 13 million bottles and 65 million euros of revenue, 85% of which comes from exports. The UK is its first export market. DOC certification dates back to 1974 and DOCG to 1998.

I left the tasting amazed at how Gavi wines, which I always considered easy and light bottles to be drunk young, can deliver excellent quality, complexity and especially aging potential. Buy some and put them away before too many people discover them and prices rise!

Prices are indicative merchant prices in the UK.

La Meirana
Gavi del Comune di Gavi, 2022 
Round, long and moderately complex, 100% steel.
£15, score 90

Ghio Roberto Vigneti Piemontemare
Vigna Pian Lazzarino, Gavi del Comune di Gavi, 2022
Smooth, evolved.
£10, score 91

La Smilla
Gavi del Comune di Gavi, 2022
Oaked 5 to 10 months, 25yo vines.
£ 15, score 92

Massone Stefano
Gavi del Comune di Gavi, 2022
Almost tropical fruit, peach, smooth end with gentle bitterness.
£ 15, score 92

Produttori del Gavi
Gavi del Comune di Gavi, 2022
Steel. Citrussy, very fresh, slight pleasant bitterness at the end.
£ 15, score 88

Tenuta San Lorenzo
Gavi, 2022
No oak, good balance and length.
£ 15, score 88

Alborina Gavi del Comune di Tassarolo, 2021
Good balance and intensity, long and complex.
£ 15, score 93

Vigna Madonnina, Gavi Riserva, 2020
Balanced and complex.
£ 25, score 93

Gavi del Comune di Gavi, 2018
Slightly honeyed, recalls Chablis style. Evolved, ready now.
£ 25, score 93

Il Mandorlo, Gavi del Comune di Tassarolo, 2016
Long, complex and balanced with toasted notes. Ready with some aging potential The best wine of the day.
£ 25, score 94

Monday, January 29, 2024

Italian Portfolio Tasting in London by Winetraders

A mix and match of Italian wines by Wintraders UK, with some gems to be noted at the end of the afternoon. Here they are.



Amarone della Valpolicella 2016.
A balanced wine with good minerality for an Amarone.
RRP £57. Score 92.

Recioto della Valpolicella, 2019
Balanced and long.
RRP £32. Score 92.



Soave Classico 2021
Zesty, fresh. RRP £37. Score 90



Barbaresco 2020
Balanced and complex, long, potential for evolution.
RRP £ 34. Score 93.

Barbaresco Cà Grossa 2019
Great structure, will reach its apex in a few years.
RRP £45. Score 94



Barolo Riserva del Fondatore, 2016
Superb structure, balance and length. Give it a few more years.
RRP £61. Score 93

Walter Massa

Colli tortonesi Barbera Bigolla 2010
Round, balanced and long, a mature wine, perhaps the best today. RRP £ 52. Score 95

Montefili
Toscana IGT Anfiteatro 2016
Complex, long still a bit abrupt, and will benefit from time in the bottle.
RRP £67. Score 90

Vike Vike

Cannonau Ghirlanda Fittiloghe 2020
20yo vines, still fresh, structured, long. A little patience required.
RRP £ 28. Score 89

Cannonau di Sardegna Ghirada Gurguruò 2020
30yo vines, an imposing wine, balanced and long.
RRP £43 Score 94

Barbagia rosso Ghirlanda Istevene 2020
100yo vines (!) a harmonious wine that lacks nothing.
RRP £ 57. Score 95

Soddu
Cannonau Brulleri Ghirada Bruncu Boeli Ris 2020
Round complex and long
RRP £31. Score 95

Sardinian wines carried the day!