Amarone masterclass in London

Another year and another great Amarone day organized by the UK Sommelier Association, after the previous editions which I reviewed here for 2022 and here for 2024 . Thank you to Andrea Rinaldi and Federica Zanghirella for the opportunity to attend, and especially to benefit from a select tasting during a masterclass led by the every faithful Peter McCombie, an old hand at Amarone.

For a general discussion of Amarone winemaking, terroir and some facts and figures I'd like to refer to the two posts linked above.

Just a quick update: the more recent figures show that Corvina, the main grape, uses up to 56% of the vines devoted to Amarone, Rondinella 19%, 

Corvinone 17%. A bit is left for Molinara. Amarone has to be made with minimum 90% corvina. Training by the 2200 growers is mostly pergola. In 2024 some 50% of all production was recioto, 25% each for Valpolicella and amarone. Just as a quick reminder, amarone is the product of appassimento, dry on "arele", which are racks in a protected environment, and lose up to 50% of weight, while it is almost never botrytis. This increases glycerin, concentrates polyphenols, sugar. 

Here are my tasting notes for this year.

1. Bottega docg 2021

Fruity, tannins need some rounding in the bottle, some sugar becomes evident in aftertaste.

Score 86

2. Contrada Palui docg 2020

Moderate intensity and structure, alcohol is felt over glycerin. Maybe help could come from decanting. 

Score 87

3. Tenuta Santa Maria di Gaetano Bertani docg classico riserva 2019

Intense, balanced and moderately complex and long. 

Score 90

4. Corte Saibante docg classico 2017 

Very well balanced, smooth, mod complex and long. 

Score 91

5. Gerardo Cesari Spa, docg classico riserva "Bosan" 2016

Mod intensity, perfect balance, long. 

Score 90

6. Falezze di Luca Anselmi docg riserva 2016 

Structure is strong and balanced, tannins still there, could use a few more years or some decanting. 

Score 92

7. Clementi docg classico 2015

Intense, perfect balance, complex and long. A harmonious wine. 

Score 96

8. Vigneti Villabella docg classico riserva "Fracastoro" 2013 

Plump fruity full bodies, balance with a smooth ending and a hint of sugar. 

Ready to drink now. 

Score 95

Almaviva masterclass

Winemaker Michel Friou gave us an instructive masterclass on this joint Franco-Chilean venture on behalf of The Drinks Business.

ALmaviva was born in 1997 when Baroness Rothschild and Eduardo Guilisasti Tagle of Vina Concha y Toro sealed an alliance between the two companies to produce a Bordeaux-blend wine in Chile.

We learned that Almaviva need irrigation, no choice given the climate of the region.

No phylloxera in Chile, use mix of grafted and ungrafted vines.

Hand harvesting and sorting destemmed grapes individually.

2 to 4 weeks of fermentation and maceration in steel, then to French new and old barrels 

12 to 24 months for top wine 

The name Almaviva comes from the character in Barbiere and Nozze di Figaro... 

About 60k bottles produced 

EPU 2022 

Means n. 2 in mapuche language, it's the second wine 

Cab sauv 84,Carmenère 19,merlot 3,cab Franc 2,petit verdot 1

12 months French oak

Fruity intense, 

Gentle tannins, moderate structure and lenght 15. 5% abv

Score 86

Almaviva 2007 

Cab sauvignon 64,carmenère 28,csb franc 7,merlot 1

Smooth long and mod complex, still taste fruit, mature 

Score 90

Almaviva 2013 

Cab sauvignon 72, Carménère 19, Cab Franc 6, Petit verdot merlot 1

Intense, long and complex ,tannins are already smooth, unlikely to improve further 

Score 93

Almaviva 2018

Cab sauvignon 72,Carménère 19,cab franc 6,petit verdot 3

Very smooth, long, ready 

Score 93

Almaviva 2023

Cab sauvignon 74, Carmenere 19, Cab Franc 5, Petit verdot 2

Fresh attack fruity balanced ending 

Score 90

Vinhos Verdes Masterclass

Masterclass by Dirceu Vianna Jr, MW on vinho verde, which is a region, not a single style like many believe. The area was demarcated in 1908.

Associated with fresh light summer wine but there is much more than that. 

Fit contemporary trend to lighter lower alcohol wines. 

Largest wine export from Portugal, more than port. 

Granite soil mostly but diversity. Mostly between Minho and South of the Douro rivers. About 120km x 90km. 

Atlantic and Mediterranean climate influence. Mild temperature, 1200mm/yr average rainfall. 

Over 17,200 hectares, mostly planting in small parcels, 1400+ producers make almost 100 million liters of wine. Over 45 varieties for vinho verde, 80% white 20% red.

Varieties cultivated

Loureiro 47m Sq meters 

Alvarinho 25

Arinto 24

Vinhao 18

Exports are mainly to the US (31%), Germany (18%), Brazil (19%), Poland (14%).

Below are my tasting notes:

1. Quinta de Azevedo 

Property from XII century. 

Loureiro 2023

Intense floral and herbal aromas Zesty fresh,passion fruit notes 

Rrp £21

Score 89

2. Casa de Pacos 

Loureiro 2018

Intense floral aromas, moderately fresh, well balanced by smooth honey notes. 

Rrp £21

Score 92

3. A&D wines 

Esculpido vinhas velhas Avesso 2022

Avesso 100%

Perfect balance and good length, 

Rrp £28

Score 93

4. Casal de Ventozela 

Prime selection 2023

Alvarinho 55%,Avesso 25%,Loureiro 20%

Wines blended from different years, bottled in 2023. 

Perfect balance, creamy vanilla, long. Surprisingly evolved so young thanks to old French osk. 

Rrp £65

Score 94

5. Soalheiro primeras vinhas 2023

Alvarinho 

Freshness prevails but still good balance and length 

Rrp £26

Score 91

6. Anselmo Mendes 

Muros antigos 2015

Alvarinho 

Fully evolved 

Rrp 14 

Score 93

7. Falua Barão do Hospital 

Espumante 2020

Padeiro

Sparkling rosé

Easy drinking, moderate bubbles 

Rrp 30

Score 85

8. Quinta de Tamariz 

Rosé vinha do Jardin 2023

Touriga Nacional 

Medium freshness and length. 

Rrp £17

Score 88

9. Costantino Ramos 

Zafirah 2019 

Alvarelhão Borraçal, pedral, vinhão

Soft extraction , light oak, elegant texture 

Rrp £23

Score 89

10.Aphros 

Vinhão 2022 

Light, slightly rough, rustic, mod length. 

Rrp £20

Score 85

11. Quinta de Santa Cristina 

Arinto Espumante 2018 

Arinto 100%

Traditional method, fragrant balanced 

Rrp £20

Score 88

12. Provam Côto de Mamoelas 

Assemblage 2017,18,19

Alvarinho 

Traditional method, balanced 

Rrp£17

score 87

The unexpected wines of monção and melgaço

Masterclass by Dirceu Vianna Jr MW. 1821 hectares of vines in these two regions, planted at 83% Alvarinho, only recently appreciated low yield small bunches, scorned in the past. Growers were sent into exile in late XVIII century if caught growing it!

Here are my tasting notes.

1. Anselmo Mendes

Tempo 2019

Loureiro 100%

Fresh, slight pleasant savory oxydation. 

Fermented on skins, good structure.

Rrp £55

Score 91

2. Adega de Monção

Deu la Deu premium 2020

Alvarinho 100%

Delicate acidity, good length. Almonds. 

Rrp £25

Score 90

3.Quinta de Paços

Casa do capitão Mor

Alvarinho sobre lias 2020 

Herbal aromas, cut grass, powerful structure for a white no doubt because of the lees. Slight "positive" oxydation. 

Very Long! 

Rrp €32 in Portugal 

Score 93

4. Soalheiro 

Revirado 2022 

Alvarinho 100%

Revirado means turned over lots of times, batonage. 

Balanced, slight bitterness, good length. 

Rrp €45 in Portugal 

Score 89

5. Valados de Melgaço

Alvarinho grande, reserva 5th anniversary 2016

Limited edition only 1910 bottles. Very light press. Wood then tank with lees. 

Herbal intensity, glycerin roundness, balance and length. A majestic perfectly aged alvarinho. 

Rrp €65 euros in Portugal 

Score 95

6. Quinta de Santiago 

Sou 2020

Alvarelhão 100%

Portuguese answer to Pinot noir 

Light, easy, balanced.

Rrp €38 in Portugal 

Score 86