Meet the producer: Bertani, Valpolicella, Italy

Andrea Leonardi at LWF 2022

Another classy master class at the London Wine Fair 2022 organized by Enotria&Coe, this time focussing on the wines of a well known Italian producer: Bertani of Valpolicella. 

Today's presentation was delivered by Andrea Leonardi, COO of the company, which puts him in charge of supervising the wine making teams of the company.

Bertani was founded in 1857, just before Italy was unified as a unitary state, by the brothers Giovan Battista and Gaetano, and it has climbed the steps of fame ever since.

Despite the less than idyllic relations between the UK and fascist Italy at the time, in 1937 its Soave was on the menu for the coronation of king George VI of the United Kingdom.

Below are some highlights from today's tastings.

Soave DOC Original Vintage Edition, 2020

Garganega 100%

Average of 40 years of age for these vines from the Soave hills. About 40% of the grapes are picked in September and the must is kept cold, the rest in October and macerated for 3 to 4 days. Fermentation on skins technically makes this an "orange wine", with high minerality and freshness. Moderate balance, could possibly benefit from a few years in the bottle. Score 86

Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC Ognisanti 2019

Corvina veronese 95%, rondinella 5%

A classic red from the Valpolicella. Bunch selected, aged for one year in oak. Lovely cherry color, orange to the nose, peppery character, mod balance and length. Score 86

Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Valpantena 2020

Grapes from Bertani's own Villa Novare in the Valpolicella Classico area. Ripasso technique is used, second fermentation in January/February in the Amarone skins. Read this article for an explanation of the difference between amarone, recioto and ripasso. Not a typical Valpolicella, much more structure yet amazing smoothness. Red cherries, pepper, Campari notes. A wine that will improve with further aging in the bottle. Score 88

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2007

Corvina veronese 80%, Rondinella 20%

Grapes from the vineyards of Arbizzano di Negrar, in the center of the "classico" region of Valpolicella. This vineyard is devoted to the exclusive production of Amarone. Hand harvest in late September with individual bunch selection. Grapes are then laid to dry in "drying rooms" on a single layer on bamboo racks. After 120 days the grapes are destemmed and crushed. After 20 days of maceration the fermentation process starts for about 30 days in concrete vats at max 18°C. Aging in 60hl Slavonian oak barrels for six years. Only simple natural ventilation is used. During aging they lose up to 25,000 bottles worth to the angels’ share, and refill with the same wine.

A full bodied wine with complex tertiary flavors and a long finish.

Score 90

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2001

Same as above but more elegant, plump, longer. A top class amarone.

Score 94

Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Amarone DOC 1972

Incredibly this wine is still fresh, at 50 years of age!

Chocolate notes, tobacco. Drink now and don't push your luck!

Score 92

Meet the producer: Fratelli, from Italy to India

At work with the seven brothers

Exciting master class at the London Wine Fair 2022 on Indian wines. Fratelli (it means "brothers") is now the largest and fastest growing wine producer in India. It started in 2007 in Maharashstra and its first vintage is from 2010. 

Seven brothers from three families (Sekhri, Secci and Mohite-Patil) and two countries (Italy and India) came together with a common goal: to produce quality wine in India. 

A country where wine, especially high quality wine, is not traditionally poured at the dining table but where the growing middle class has learned to appreciate it and can afford it.

The tradition in India at that time, and still now in many places, was mostly for producers to buy wines under contract from many farmers, while Fratelli began by planting its own vineyards with rootstock imported from France. The brothers looked for good soil that would allow them to control yields and keep quality high.

Fratelli now caters mostly to the growing domestic Indian market, though exports have begun to pick up toward Singapore and the US, where expat Indian communities are attracted to wines Made in India.

Steven Spurrier worked with Fratelli for seven years to help the brothers find the best blends for their products. The result is wines to drink soon after bottling, for now the production is not yet at the stage where a long aging in bottle is recommended. Tannins are ready when the bottles leave the cellar. One reason is that Fratelli tried to make wines to match Indian food, so smooth wines to pair with spicy masalas.

Here are some of my best takeaways from the tasting.

Gran Cuvée Brut
chenin blanc 80%, muller thurgau 15%, gewurztraminer 5%
Uses chenin blanc in this traditional method because it is appreciated by the large Indian community in South Africa, with which Fratelly wants to consolidate a long standing relationship. Fresh and zesty, mod balance. A structured wine. Abv 12%. Score 85.

Chenin blanc 2021

Green highlights around the characteristic straw yellow. Almonds and some bitter notes at the end. Abv 12.5%. Score 83.

Sauvignon blanc 2021

Another fresh wine, but more balanced than the chenin blanc. Abv 12.5%. Score 87.

Sette 2019

Sangiovese 60%, cab sauvignon 40%

This blend is clearly inspired by the supertuscans, and it is not produced every year. A plump wine with considerable elegance and structure. Good balance, tendence of smoothness to prevail, and enjoyable length. It is ready now with limited potential for aging in the bottle. By far the best product of the house, it retails for about 25 dollars in the US: Money well spent.

Score 89

Sette Fratelli

Meet the producer: Fontanafredda, Piedmont, Italy

Fontanafredda was originally owned by Italy's first king, Vittorio Emanuele II, no less, and it was founded in 1858, three years before Italy was unified under his leadership. One reason why Barolo is often referred to as "the wine of kings" as well as "the king of wines". Much has changed since then, Italy is a republic, but the name stuck.

Today the new owner is Oscar Farinetti, the famous founder of Eataly, and Fontanafredda is more than a vineyard, it is a community. At one point over 300 families shared their lives there, and had their school, their church. A large enterprise, that in 2018 became the largest organic producer in Piedmont.

It is open to the public 365 days a year, book your tasting session in advance!

Today's speaker at a masterclass organized by Enotria&Coe at the London Wine Fair 2022, is Roberto Bruno. Originally from Piedmont, he joined Fontanafredda in 1991 and is now Managing Director. Here is a selection of my tasting notes.

Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi (organic) 2021
Cortese 100%

Soft pressing and no skin contact. Low temperature fermentation (18°C, 85% in steel and 15% in barrique). A very fresh wine, to be drunk chilled during a warm Summer evening with simple and delicate food.

Score 84

Langhe DOC Nebbiolo Grappolo Intero 2020

Nebbiolo 100%

Obtained by fermenting part pressed must and part whole grape bunches, as harvested from the vine.

Fermentation in steel at 28°C for 10-12 days.

A fairly hard wine that may find its balance with further aging in the bottle.

Score 82

Barolo DOCG Serralunga d'Alba 2018

Nebbiolo 100%

Traditional fermentation, 15 days of skin contact.

Also a hard wine, definitely too young now.

Score 84

The name of Vittorio Emanuele II's mistress, Rosa, denotes a top of the range wine at Fontanafredda. We were lucky to have a chance for a vertical tasting.

Barolo DOCG Fontanafredda Vigna La Rosa 2016

Nebbiolo 100%

Grapes are delivered to the cella destemmed but not crushed and fermentation begins with indigenous yeasts at 28 to 30 °C.

Fruit and tannins are well amalgamated. A balanced, structured wine that is ready now but can easily evolve a few more years.

Score 92

Barolo DOCG Fontanafredda Vigna La Rosa 2011

Nebbiolo 100%

Ready now.

Score 92

Barolo DOCG Fontanafredda Vigna La Rosa 1998

Nebbiolo 100%

Fantastic wine, with all the elements of balance, complexity and length to deserve to be called harmonious.

Mature now, don't wait any longer, in fact it was probably at its peak a few years ago.

Score 94.

Meet the producer: Brancaia, Tuscany, Italy

Andrea D'Alessio

Interesting master class organized by Enotria&Coe at the London Wine Fair 2022 on the Brancaia vineyards. Keynote speaker was Andrea D'Alessio. Born in Alba, in the heart of the Langhe, in Piedmont, he grew up surrounded by Barolo and Nebbiolo wine. Since 2017 he is global sales director at Brancaia.

Brancaia is the result of a unique marriage between a Swiss family, Bruno and Brigitte Widmers, and Tuscany, which they visited over forty years ago for the first time and then made their home.

Today the daughter of the two founders, Barbara Andrea Widmer, who initially trained as an architect, continues the family tradition as winemaker.

They aim at max quality. No irrigation, even when allowed, to force the roots deep into the ground. They also run a restaurant and a B&B.

Brancaia Rosé 2021

100% merlot

Andrea Widmer was not happy with their red wine merlot, so she decided to make a rosé. The result is a citrussy, fresh wine, with light pale orange color obtained by avoiding almost all skin contact. They aim at max 30 minutes from picking in the vineyard to pressing in the cellar. Style imitates the rosé de Provence. Three months on lees.

Score 87

Brancaia Tre 2020

sangiovese 80%, merlot 10%, cab sauvignon 10%

Entry level product, their main wine, 80% of all production.

They use grapes that are not used for their premium line wines.

Very fresh, sight bitter end.

Score 80

Brancaia Chianti classico 2020

sangiovese 100%

Sourced from south-facing own vineyards at 230 and 400 meters above sea level. Steel and concrete, their entry level chianti

Recommend serving slightly chilled!

Long, clean finish, good balance.

Score 89

Brancaia Chianti classico riserva 2018

sangiovese 80%, merlot 20%

A structured and smooth wine, perfect balance.

A great chianti.

Score 92

Brancaia Ilatraia 2018

cab sauvignon 40%, petit verdot 40%, cab franc 20%

Vineyards at 75 to 175 meters of altitude, 25 day sof skin contact.

Full body, smooth, perfect balance and very long.

Grapes are vinified separately, all in French barriques, 50% new and 50% old, then blended.

Score 93

Brancaia Ilatraia 2008

Cab sauvignon 60%, sangiovese 30% petit verdot 10%

Plump fruity wine despite its age, good balance and length.

Mature now (2022) do not wait any longer, it was probably at its best a few years back.

Score 91

Brancaia lineup

 

A new Zealand walkaround in London

A fun day tasting New Zealand wines, expertly organized by Sarah Shepherd and Chris Stroud of NZ Wine. A large gathering with a wide range of products. 

Here below are some of the gems that I thought were most worth taking note of. I surely missed many more as one day was just not enough to do justice to this great event: 270 wines, over 20 styles, and a special section dedicated to organic wines which reserved a few gems for us. 

Indicative RRP in GBP.

Click on the vineyard's name to link to their websites.

Akitu

Akitu pinot noir blanc 2021
Pinot noir 100% vinified as white wine, with only a shade of pink to betray the original red grape. Citrus, almonds, good balance and mod length. A pleasant surprise. GBP 42, not cheap. Score 88

Akitu A2, pinot noir 100%
A good simple pinot noir, a bit expensive at GBP 31.

Score 85

Akitu A1, pinot noir 100%

A more complex variation of this noble grape. GBP 31

Score 86

Craggy Range

Craggy Range Aroha Pinot noir 2019

A complex wine which is surprisingly mature already. GBP 75

Score 92

Craggy Range Le Sol Syrah 2019

Also amazingly ready to please the taster, GBP 75

Score 92

Craggy Range Sophia Red Blend 2019

60% Merlot, 26% Cab franc, 14% cab sauvignon. 

The least interesting of the top three, it is anyway a very successful blend with a round body, also ready now. GBP 75

Score 89

Burn Cottage

Vineyard Riesling Gruner Veltliner 2019

A tingling wine of floral complexity and citrussy notes. GBP 48

Score 90.

Pinot Noir Moonlight Race 2019

Full, tannic, fresh. An exuberant wine. GBP 42

Score 92

Central Otago Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019

Very full, round, long, a majestic wine. GBP 53

Score 94

Trinity Hill

Gimblett Gravels Marsanne/Viognier 2019

Vanilla, butter. GBP 25

Score 88.

Gimblett Gravels "The Gimblett"

54% cab sauvignon, 43% cab franc, 3% tempranillo

A structured wine with a bitterish end that promises a great evolution. GBP 25

Score 86

"Homage" Gimblett Shiraz 2018

Fermented on viognier skins! Complex, tannis, needs time. GBP 99

Score 90

Below a selection of my best finds in the separate organic wine walkaround. Organic wines are making huge progress in quality, also in New Zealand.

Clos Henri 

Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2017

A surprise, smooth, long and mod complex. GBP 28

Score 93

Greystone 

Pinot Noir, Waipara, Canterbury 2018

Smooth long and complex, an amazing quality/price ratio. GBP 26

Score 93

Black Estate 

Damsteep Pinot Noir Canterbury 2019

A top wine, perfect balance and complex. A harmonious wine. GBP 46

Score 94

Black Estate 

Home Pinot Noir Canterbury 2019

Similar to previous wine, GBP 46

Score 94

Felton Road 

Pinot Noir Block 3, Bannockburn, Central Otago 2020

Complex and long. GBP 62

Score 92

Felton Road 

Pinot Noir Block 5, Bannockburn, Central Otago 2020

Similar to previous wine, GBP 62

Score 92

Presentation of the English version of Doctor Wine's Essential Guide to Italian Wines

A high quality tasting in Piccadilly today to present the subject guide by Daniele Cernilli and his team. The first guide for the best Italian wines in both Italian and English. You can subscribe to their informative newsletter for free, just click on the link above.

Below is a selection of the best wines I found today.


Roero cascina ca' rossa

Bianco 2019
Inviting aroma to the nose, prevalence of citrus. A med length wine ready now.
Score 86

Roero le coste 2018
A medium structure wine that can be paired with a variety of med structure food, including roast fish.
Score 86

Mompissano 2018
Strong tannins in this best product from this vineyard, needs a bit of time but promises to be a good standard bearer of Piedmont is its category.
Score 88
____

Tenuta Santa Caterina

Grignolino 2020
Surprisingly powerful, it still keeps the grignolino fruitiness, great balance.
Score 90

Barbera superiore Vignalina 2019
Balanced long
Score 92

Freisa Asti superiore
Red and Black fruit
Structured, balanced.
Score 93
____

Famiglia Cotarella

Farentano Rossetto 17
Round smooth buttery, some citrus notes
Score 90

Brunello Montalcino macioche 16
Medium body and balance
Score 85

Montiano merlot 100pc 18
Ripe wild fruits
Smooth balanced long, ana amazing wine but needs 5 years
Score 95
____

Querciabella

Batár 18
50chard 50 pinot bianco
White flower, slight minerality, Smooth long
Score 94

Chianti classico riserva 18
Very powerful, structured
Long and complex
Needs 3-5 years
Score 94

Camartina 17
Cab sauv e sangiovese
Harmonious
Score 97

____

Tenute del cerro

The best house represented today IMHO.

Silìneo 2018 nobile montepulciano
Smooth velvet
Balanced
Score 97

Brunello la poderina 17
Smooth
Perfect balance harmonious
Ready
Score 98

Poggio miniera val di cornia 2013
Smooth powerful balance
Score 98

Giacomo Alari delle Tenute del Cerro

Stars of the Show

Nebbiolo Day in London by Hunt and Speller

In company of the great Alessandro Masnaghetti

Another great tasting of nebbiolo organized magnificently by Hunt and Speller of London in the Royal Horticultural Society, a habitual venue for sommelier in the capital.

Nebbiolo is synonym of Piemonte (Piedmont) of course and of Barolo and Barbaresco, the two iconic wines of the region. But it is more that than. It is grown in adjacent regions and it is vinified in a variety of ways. 

I even found a sparkling wine, produced with the traditional method and light pressing of the grapes, for a final rosé result.

The highlight of the day were the three masterclasses, see some notes below.

The most curious novelty, for me at least, was a sparkling wine made with lightly pressed nebbiolo by  Casina Bric.  Il Nebbiolo d'Alba spumante dates back to 1970, and is the 3rd "spumante" DOC awarded in Italy, though the vineyard goes back to napoleonic times. Delicate aromas and med body. Score 85

Masterclass N. 1: Barbaresco, with Alessandro Masnaghetti

The life of Barbaresco turns around the Tanaro river. On the left bank sandy soil, it is more difficult to grow nebbiolo. On the right bank clay, results in a more tannic and structured wine.

DOC received in 1967 for about 200 hectares, the area grew to 500 hectares by the 1990s and it is now close to 800.

Four "comuni": Barbaresco, Neive, Alba and Treiso, each with its own distinctive features.

Younger soil on steep slopes, less sedimentation, richer in nutrition for the vines. "Evolved" soil on smoother slopes, more sedimentation results  in accumulation of more nutrition.

Generally rounder, more elegant products compared to Barolo. (Barolo producers may not agree.)

1. Poderi Colla Roncaglie 2018

Light garnet color, lively tannins. Moderate balance but lacks somewhat in structure. I can feel the alcohol, a more traditional winemaking?

Score 82

2. Pio Cesare, Il Bricco 2018

Full garnet color, oaky nose and palate. Complex and long and well balanced. Stereotypical smooth and full bodied barbaresco.

Score 90

3. Giuseppe Cortese, Rabajà 2018

Deep garnet, full body,  round and smooth. Very long. A masterpiece. Ready now, hard to say how much it could still improve.

Score 94

4. Albino Rocca, Ronchi 2018

Full, round wine, ripe fruit and long finish. Also ready now, no reason to wait.

Score 94

5. Cantina del Pino, Orvello 2018

Ruby color with garnet highlights. Still a bit rough but a very structured wine with promising evolution. For lovers of traditional nebbiolo with no concessions to modern smoother taste.

Score 95

6. Adriano Marco e Vittorio basarin, 2018

Amazingly complex and round wine, full of nuances, very long finish

Score 96

Masterclass N. 2: Valtellina, Alto Piemonte and Roero with Walter Speller

Nebbiolo as a grape has been documented since the XVI century, and has been a protagonist in northern Italy for longer. However it has not been possible to find its parent grapes as they probably died out over time.

Most people focus on the tannins of Barolo, but this is not entirely fair: one should pay more attention to BALANCE!

1. Arpepe, Rosso di Valtellina 2020

Tingling, fresh, lively, mod balance and length.

Score 85.

2. Dirupi, Gess 2017 Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva

Smooth and balanced, mod long.

Score88

3. Nino Negri, Sfursat Carlo Negri 2018 Sforzato di Valtellina

Round, long. Called the "son of the wind" because it is picked in early October and then dries 100 days in boxes in a "fruttaio". No control of temperature or humidity. Then pressed in December when below zero. And blended with grapes taken from the vines, so it is actually two separate harvests mixed together. A mix of amarone and late harvest / icewine style.

Score 92

4. Cantine Garrone, Prünent 2019 Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo Superiore

Powerful, balanced and long.

Score 94.

5. Antoniotti Odilio 2018 Bramaterra

Dark garnet, fermented in 120-years-old cement tanks! No temperature control.

Full bodied, majestic wine.

Score 95

6. Le Pianelle 2016 Bramaterra

Dark garnet, a balanced wine with complexity and a long finish.

Score 92

7. Travaglini 2016 Gattinara Riserva

North Piedmont, cooler areas and windy. Unique bottle, dates back to 1958. Apparently Charles V loved this wine...  Touch of bitter, great length. nebbiolo is called "spanna" in this part of Piedmont.

Score 95

8. Hilberg Pasquero SUl MOnte 2016 Nebbiolo d'Alba

Needs time to round the tannins, a powerful structured wine with huge potential.

Score 93

Alessandro Masnaghetti

Masterclass N. 3: Barolo, with Alessandro Masnaghetti

1. Diego Morra, Monvigliero 2018

Fresh and harsh, needs a long time to mature.

Score 83

2. Ceretto, Brunate 2018

Still needs time but I can feel a huge potential once the rough edges and rounded out a bit. Typical Brunate according to Masnaghetti, with a touch of unmistakable and pleasant bitterness. A powerful wine.

Score 90

3. G.D. Vajra, Bricco delle Viole 2018

Round and still with good potential.

Score 92

4. Rocche di Castiglione, Brovia 2018

Smooth, long and with powerful tannins, needs time.

Score 94

5. G. Fenocchio, Villero 2018

Grande vino, it screams for more time to evolve but it is already amazingly powerful, round and long now.

Score 96

6. Diego Conterno, Ginestra 2018

Score 94

7. Ettore Germano, Prapo 2018

Great balance, harmony!

Score 98

8. Grimaldi Bruna, Badarina 2018

Perfect balance velvet complexity and and incredible length.

Score 98